Disclaimer: Out of respect I will be using their native Portuguese spelling of Brasil and Brasilian.
On November 21st, 2006 I had the good fortune to find myself sitting next to Monika & Rodolfo on Air China. Turns out we were on the same China tour so the friendship originated on that flight blossomed over the next 12 days. Since then I’ve visited them and their two daughters near their home east of L.A., joined them on a spontaneous long weekend in Puerto Vallarta and took a cruise together through The Bahamas.
Seventeen years ago Monika and Rodolfo left Brasil to seek the American Dream. Earlier last year when they invited me to join them on a trip back home I knew I’d have the ideal tour guides.
Friday, January 25th, 2008
Milwaukee to Houston to....
Saturday, January 26th, 2008
....Sao Paolo to Rio de Janeiro.
I expected to be met at the airport by Monika and Rodolfo. Instead I was met by them and a cadre of their families. It was a sea of smiles, handshakes, that kiss on each cheek thing and warm feelings. This kindness and hospitality was to become a reoccurring theme the entire trip. Included in this assembly were Rodolfo’s parents, Julia and Leonidas, my exceptional hosts for the next 10 days.
On the drive to their place in Barra da Tijuca (down the coast from Rio to the west) I had my first glimpse of favelas. What Americans would know as shantytowns or slums the sites of these wretched the heart. Most of them are on what was thought to be unbuildable steep hillsides.
Soon after getting to Julia and Leonidas’ place more and more nice people started showing up and the food came out. The food and fun loving people is a hallmark of the Brasilian lifestyle.
A balmy evening, the sounds of waves rolling in, palm trees overhead, a freshly hatched coconut for coconut water....how serene....and it was snowing back home...with Monika's Dad Jose:
The day was concluded meeting Rodolfo’s childhood friend and his wife, Marcio and Marisol, to dine al fresco.
Sunday, January 27th, 2008
Off to a baby shower for Rodolfo’s sister Eugenia and her husband Erico. Held at a ranch this is where I learned the Brasilian way of eating- a constant stream of food all day. Yes! There were about 120 well-wishers attending.
I spent excessive time at the grill watching in fascination a gentleman prepare beef, chicken, linguiça, and chicken hearts with deftness.
Later in the day out came the grilled bananas. Although I had two regular ones in the morning the steaming sweetness accentuated by a topping of cinnamon sugar required having two more.
Monday, January 28th, 2008
Monika and Rodolfo left the night before to travel with his childhood buddy and his wife. This was my opening to do the tourist thing. Leo was amazingly kind by not just showing me what bus to take to Ipanema, but to get on it with me, take the hour trip, get off and wait 40 minutes for the tour bus to arrive.
After picking up more tourists in Ipanema and Copacabana the tour initiated with a drive and a few stops in Centro- downtown Rio. I’d best describe it as splendid colonial architecture that was shelled some decades ago and never repaired. It was an amazing amalgamation of what was and what could still be.
Off to the coast to take the two trams to Sugarloaf Mountain. One of the main attractions in Rio you might recognize it from such movies as Moonraker. The views encapsulated Rio, Copa, the mountains and ocean.
Lunch was at a churrascaria. These traditional Brasilian barbecues are as common there as hot dog stands in Chicago or coffee shops in Seattle. They include a buffet of salads, veggies, fruits, pastas, side dishes and casseroles. Then the focus is waiters traveling the dining room with spits of meat that are carved directly onto your plate.
Christ the Redeemer is as identifiable with Rio as the Eiffel Tower and Statue of Liberty are with their cities. It had started to rain, wind picked up and temperature dropped requiring a quick climb and pictures of my most looked forward to site.
While climbing down I turned and took this moments before clouds enveloped Him.
That night it was off to witness Brasilian consumerism in a huge mall in Barra. Found things are expensive- at least twice as much as here.
Tuesday, January 29th, 2008
Made a couple morning trips to satisfy my fascination with grocery stores. Breakfast of papaya and mango.
It was a welcomed surprise to see Sonia and Ivo again. Monika and Rodolfo got back mid-afternoon and we enjoyed some more excellent food with new ingredient discoveries for this gringo all washed down with freshly made passion fruit juice.
Rain thwarted other plans so the girls went to BarraShopping and Rodoflo and I made the rounds to Rio Design Barra, BarraShopping, Casa Shopping and Carrefour.
Dinner included a spaghetti dish with addictive chicken.
Wednesday, January, 30th, 2008
Monika, Rodolfo and I took the bus....
....to Copacabana and walked the city. I’d describe the look of this town as what a 1930s RKO Pictures set in South America would depict.
We met up with Julia, Leonidas, Tia (Aunt) Beth and Eugenia at Tia Maro’s. Tia Maro attributed her 98 years to eating 6 small meals a day, nothing after 8PM and never getting married. I’m living to 200!
The white meat of this chicken was phenomenal. I never eat the skin to avoid the fat but some had gotten on my plate. This skin could change me. On the second helping had to get more. Like a little MORE fat on this trip is going to kill ya…..
Along the walk to the subway this cart could not be avoided for a freshly made churro.
Emerging from the subterranean we were in the heart of Centro Rio. The mosaic of classic 1900s architecture had my head swimming.
Next stop was Rodolfo’s cousin Afonso’s deli.
The next segment of walking was one of my highlights. It was sensory overload of fabulous albeit decaying architecture, street vendors, oozing character everywhere and lots of vibe. All the while Monika provided excellent anecdotes, history and descriptions of the street food.
We moved into the LAPA neighborhood of intricate buildings and evidence of efforts to bring this area back to life with restaurants and nightclubs.
A large group convened at a famous nightclub/restaurant. Food was a rare letdown but the company made the night.
Thursday, January 31st, 2008
After yet another enticing breakfast of papaya and a just made juice of mango, papaya and banana Rodolfo, Leonidas and I got on a bus. Rodolfo and I got off in Ipanema and Leo continued on to run errands.
We walked the length of the beach soaking up the rays permeating from the blue skies.
Moving onto Copacabana Beach some hydration was required and provided from a freshly hatched coconut for its water.
Our walked continued into downtown Copa where we met up with Leo. Onto another bus and back to Barra for lunch. Met up with Monika and some more of her family, ten of us total, at a churrascaria. This place had a very impressive looking decor and respectable spread of food.
For tableside meat they had several cuts of beef, lamb, calamari, chicken hearts, cheese crusted filet mignon, chicken, fried cheese, salmon, rib meat and tentacles. At the tables were quail eggs, squid, marinated veggies, Portuguese fish dishes, salads, sushi and a multitude of side dishes.
I was doing well for intake. Until.....I discovered the yucca fries. Rodolfo said he’d order more. "No." He did. OK, I’ll have one. Or two. Ate the whole plate.
Friday, February 1st, 2008
Off to their place in the mountains outside of Teresopolis, north or Rio. The route took us through the now familiar Ipanema, Copacabana and Rio. Got into an unfamiliar part of Rio requiring marveling at the visual tour de force of architecture and activity.
Outside the confines of the city the landscape opened up to lush mountains.
Along the twisty mountain road we stopped at a market and I saw this:
Retrieving Rodoflo he explained it is pumpkin and coconut. A girl saw us looking at it and offered a sample. Being paranoid of sanitation and the flies I declined. Rodolfo pushed me and figured I’ve thrown caution into the wind enough lately. Great stuff. He bought some so we had a few days to relish more.
Continuing on the panoramic views never rested.
It took 3 hours to get to Teresopolis whose downtown area reminded me of remote cities in China, without the dirt roads.
The next family gathering was at Tia Beth’s where she had an impressive (and delicious) spread of goodies.
We went for a lllooonnnggg walk to return to more enticing eats for dessert. I became hooked on Goibana (guava).
Saturday, February 2nd, 2008
The required morning run’s route brought me into communities of markets and churches along cobblestone streets. It was reflective of remote areas of Mexico. Another beautiful day to let the outdoors in on their comfortable mountain home.
Yet another wonderful breakfast; this one including papaya, mango, banana and figs.
After this refreshing start to the day Rodolfo, Julia, Leonidas and I embarked on a 3 hour hike. This photo is taken from their house and shows the peak we hiked to in the top center.
There were some more rustic communities before the trail which become narrower and steeper as the miles progressed.
Chuckle, what are the chances of seeing abandoned cars in Rocky Mountain National Park?
Rodolfo’s parents’ ability was quite impressive; more so factoring in there age. I won’t give it away, but let’s say it starts with a number that rhymes with kix. These are the views from the top.
Some relaxation was earned after the hike. Some swam as I sat by the pool grateful for the balmy weather and blue skies. We then headed back to Tia Beth’s were more suburb food was waiting.
After dinner most of the group headed to another Aunts. I hung back, had the gracious offer to use a computer to check work e-mail, and then we had the attractive presentation of satisfying fresh fruit.
Sunday, February 3rd, 2008
On the way out of town we stopped at a large street fair which was fun, if anything to try food. I marveled at a booth that was sifting yucca flour to ladle into a skillet, grill, add fillings and fold over. I chose my new favorite, guava, for the filling and enjoyed the unique texture and warm guava.
At another cart my inquires where handled by Monika translating with the proprietor who offered samples.
Back to Barra for another delicious lunch of chicken/pasta, quail eggs and veggies. Then desserts of couscous cake, owl cake and another new discovery for me that is like a pumpkin puree. Got the recipe.
The day’s finale was meeting with their friends for some more food.
Monday, February 4th, 2008
It was a treat to tag along with Julia and Leonidas to a specialty fruit market. Colorful gorbs of produce abounded supported with expert explanations from my hosts. Next up was a Wal-Mart Supercenter; about a sixth the size of an American one but with their familiar fixtures, signage and even Great Value brand.
Spread of lunch included cow tongue, an artfully arranged plateful of veggies and beans & rice.
4PM, 3 hour bus ride to airport had an array of images:
12 hour flight to Houston and back in the U.S. of A!
Commentary
Food: There was no bad food. In fact it was almost exclusively excellent; only hampered by some restaurants. Special kudos go to the food coming out of Julia’s kitchen. What she and their maid, Walkiria, created was astounding and had something you can't get in a restaurant- heart. Supporting intricately prepared dished were fresh papaya, mango, a variety of bananas, figs and other indigenous ingredients.
Brasil: Only being able to draw off seeing a small sliver of this large country the biggest impressions included:
• The tall peaks rising everywhere blanketed by flourishing tropical vegetation.
• The disparity of the poor and upper middle class/rich; with no real middle class. Tour books correctly emphasize this and how the classes intermingle with favelas right next to lavish homes.
• In spite of this everyone is happy.
• Brasilian’s strong commentary on their land.
• They eat really well. (bonus points!)
• They eat often. (bonus points!)
• Their cars are small.
• As Rodolfo explain, “The only law not broken is the Law of Gravity”.
The People: Everyone I was introduced to was so friendly and kind. Brasilians will not hesitate to praise their country. They are aware and saddened by the challenges including corruption and bureaucracy but this does not dampen their enthusiasm. And everyone was so nice. Accentuated by the realization that not only was I a stranger but also a foreigner.
Language: Going into this trip I knew I’d be in the dark most of the time and was fine with it. I was the guest, the visitor. By the second day at the baby shower I became attentive at how this forces you to deduce what is going on by tone, inflection and body language. It did at times make for a lonely atmosphere, but mostly it was frustrating to not get to know people. Nevertheless, even without verbal communication connections were still made.
United States of America: I don’t need any reinforcement to know the abundance of opportunities, liberty, freedom, infrastructure, cleanliness and standard of living we have. Yet traveling abroad never fails to highlight the greatest-country-in-the-world-in-the-history-of-the-world.
Upcoming: England in March