Astute readers will recall the last Travelogue ended with a preview of a trip to Madrid with Rodolfo, Monika, Rachel and Julia.
The plan was to fly standby on Monika’s employer U.S. Airways (at a reduced fare for me). They were starting from Ontario, California's airport 40 miles east of L.A. and me from Milwaukee, of course. We’d meet in Philadelphia and then continue together on the international flight to Spain.
Friday, November 21st, 2008 was a most interesting day.
Friday, November 21st, 2008
3:30AM: Up earlier than the usual no-alarm-clock-needed 5AM.
5:00AM to 6:30AM: Workout.
6:30AM to 10:30AM: Intensely debated two job opportunities while making calls on them while finalizing packing. Excitedly accept a job.
11:00AM: Arrive at Mitchell for my 12:15PM flight to find it delayed until 2:55PM. Reading my mind that I’m not sitting in an airport for 4 hours the agent kindly explains it could leave early and to be there at 1PM. Leave for a Polish lunch at Crocus on South 13th.
1:00PM: Back at airport, flight boards at 1:45, departs at 2. No worry since the Philly layover was 6 hours.
5:00PM: Arrive at Philadelphia and call Rodolfo to announce my arrival and hear:
“Madrid is overbooked, we’re going somewhere else, flight leaves in less than an hour, we’re at gate A17.”
“I’ll hustle it”
Hang up and grimly think, “I’ve spent hours researching Spain”. Then it hits me:
“Where are we going??”
I find them working on rerouting one piece of luggage, hugs are exchanged. Soon we hear an announcement, “Last boarding call to Rome.”
Hurriedly rushing a few gates down I mutter, “You guys are going to kill me from stress.”
For all 50 states and several countries I have Excel spreadsheets detailing sites, attractions and restaurants populated with prices, hours and addresses so all research is out of the way before trips. Fortunately I had the foresight before this trip to save some of these into my Yahoo e-mail for remote retrieval, just in case. Italy was one of them.
After fulfilling England in March Italy became the next country I wanted to visit with Rome the next major city. Jackpot!
Eight hour flight to….
Saturday, November 22nd, 2008
…Rome.
The 18 mile train to Centro took a half hour. That’s myself, Julia, Rodolfo, Monika and Rachel.
During this journey jet lag caught up with a couple of the young ladies.
Finding Internet access outside of Termini we secured a hotel room after surfing kayak.com and Tripadvisor. A metro ride, bus trip and walk later proved it wasn’t a convenient location, but it was a nice place.
Since we were all tired, hungry and tired we decided to head back to Centro for a cursory glance of ruins, get dinner and then turn in early.
Emerging from the subway my most anticipated site filled the sky. Monika’s declaration echoed my thoughts, “Now we’re in Rome”.
We circled the Colosseum in awe of the majesty and imagery of the workmanship of a past civilization to build such an incredible structure. AND it’s still standing.
Next to the Colosseum are the ruins of the original Roman settlement Palatino.
Heading past Piazza Venezia narrowly spaced buildings created valleys floored in cobblestones.
Dinner was at a heated sidewalk café and featured such Italian stalwarts as bruschetta, minestrone, caprese and fettuccine Alfredo.
Heading back a fascination with grocery stores was fulfilled with Auchon located behind the hotel.
Sunday, November 23rd, 2008
During grub at the hotel’s cheery breakfast room it was revealed why The Family invites me on trips. “Is it my witty conversation and rugged good looks?!”
Um,no, something about research, organization, navigation and subsequent Travelogues.
On the way to the subway Rodolfo realized he forgot his debit card so Monika, Rachel and I continued on into Centro to walk the town and past a site on my list.
Listed in the 1,000 Places To See Before You Die book Santa Maria Maggiore traces its construction to 352-366 AD and is considered a holy destination.
Imagine the spectacle 2,000 years ago. 50,000 cheering. Exotic beasts from Africa fighting with gladiators. The pomp of emperors. Pennants whipping in the breeze. The clang of swords.
It boogles the mind to comprehend the ability to erect such a monument with ancient building techniques. It remains a testament to Roman engineering.
That statue looks familiar….
One of the seven hills of Rome the ruins of Palatino rise 131 feet providing a fantastic vantage point for the ruins of Roman Forum below.
It is an amazing stroll through millenniums.
To the right is the Temple of Antoninus and Faustina built in 141. Surrounding this is the Roman Forum.
We continued on our trek and headed northwest. Discovered during 1920s construction Sacra Area Argentina still baffles archeologists. The limited knowledge reveals there were four temples dating from the 4th to 2nd centuries BC.
A well known and researched religious site the Pantheon was built in 125AD and is recognized as being the best preserved Roman site.
Alfa Romeo GT1300. Gorgeous.
Featured in countless movies and tourist photos Trevi Fountain is a required Roma stop. This Baroque water spectacle is new having being built in 1629.
The mandatory photos.
And all the tourists doing the same.
On my pre-scouted list the legendary Caffe Greco can boast of being Rome’s oldest café and a haunt of cultural types throughout the past couple centuries. Got an apple tart.
The dense concentration of life provided unending sources of attractive street views.
Built to link the hillside between Piazza di Spagna and Piazza Trinità dei Monti the Spanish Steps feature a multitude of visual imagery- their own magnificant architecture, fountains, an ancient church and two Piazzas. These aspects keeps this area buzzing with energy.
This is the view from the top of the 138 stairs.
Finally had to give in after passing several street vendors roasting chestnuts.
Monday, November 24th, 2008
Another group assembly for a bountiful breakfast.
Campo De Fiori is accessed from all four sides via narrow alleys.
This medieval approach accentuates this famed market’s charm.
Canvass umbrellas shelter a cornucopia of produce; handmade pasta; olive oil; meats so fresh they still have fur, feathers and even heads; and colorful flowers.
A window showcasing an oven wasn’t needed to invite me into this bustling bakery.
And a few blocks away another bakery packed with goodies was an excuse for biscotti.
Expansive Piazza Navona oozes with atmosphere. Not one, but two fountains; flowerpot accessorized windows; dining al fresco and a grand building anchoring one side.
Time to enter country number 13 for me- The Vatican.
St. Peter’s Square.
An inaudible “Wow” was all I could utter upon entering Basilliac St. Pietro.
No prose or pictures can capture the immensity, intricate details, beauty, workmanship or sacredness of this place.
For 5 Euros one can climb to the top of this Basillica. To reach the rotunda you scale 551 steps. To the cupola there are 331 more steps sandwiched in between the rotunda interior and exterior. These pictures are on the way down yet mirror the climb up and show the cramped quarters and angled walls.
All this work is rewarded with panoramic views of Rome.
After solemnly walking through The Tomb of the Popes (no photos allowed) we emerged to find a downpour.
We struggled the 1 kilometer to the Vatcian Museum.
My sole requirement to visit the Vatican Museum was to see the Sistine Chapel. To reach it there are seemingly miles of hallways and rooms with remarkable artwork and impressive architecture. It institutes an appreciation for those gifted to be able to produce such works of art.
We lingered in the Sistine Chapel for 45 minutes necks craned upwards marveling at Michelangelo’s genius.
In this picture you can see the most well known section of God reaching out to Adam.
Tuesday, November, 25th, 2008
Having efficiently and thoroughly seen all the major sites we had today to continue to explore. Foot, subway and bus were all modes to probe deeper into the pockets of Rome not yet seen.
An unscripted mother and daughter moment in Piazza Barberini.
The famed street Via Veneto made legendary by the 1960 film La Dolce Vita.
The semi-circular Piazza Repubblica's ancient origins are contrasted with the steady flow of whizzing cars. This is a stitched photo explaining the half car/half van.
Piazza Del Popolo sits on the north end of Rome and anchors one end of Via Del Corso. Backed by majestic buildings on the north side to the south three roads spoke off opening up a world of consumerism.
The center of these streets Via Del Corso is the main shopping avenue of Roma running most of the length of the city.
Ubiquitous all over Rome are gelato shops. Monika had ultra rich and creamy coconut and Julia had what we would call cookies and cream.
Further down Via Del Corso I had my turn with mixed berry.
Segwaying off this thoroughfare are a warren of alleys oozing with atmosphere.
Back at Piazza Spagna we got to see the Spanish Steps during the day. Oh, we actually saw a guy fill his water bottle at that fountain.
Circo Massimo was the site of the Roman chariot races.
Remnants of a bridge evoked philosophical thoughts.
In the middle of Tiber River sits Isola Tiberna. The stroll to this tiny island was rewarding to absorb local culture.
Wednesday, November 26th, 2008
On the taxi ride to the airport the kids were told to sit in the third row.
A nine hour flight to Philly included 4 movies, 1 issue of European Car magazine, 1 book and lots of food. While innocently partaking in one of these media forms a wadded up pretzel wrapper hit me in the face. Projected by Rodolfo from 5 seats and an aisle away. Nice role model as the girls giggled. Trying to retaliate, my non-athleticism placed the wrapper at the guy behind him. Oops. Little while later whomp, a gum wrapper. Back to minding my own business. Wham, a blanket.
Landing in PHL navigating the usual miles of hallways, escalators and custom desks The Family hurriedly headed to terminal E in an attempt to get an earlier flight home. Thanks for the company gang.
Wheels down at MKE at 7, car at 7:30 to learn it was 26 degrees, home at 8, shovel until 8:30. Asleep at 8:50 after being up for 24 hours.
What a GREAT trip.
Oh, that overbooked Madrid flight- turns out 10 passengers didn't make it.