Japan


Tuesday, September 3rd, 2024

We last left our travel hero heading from South Korea to Japan, his 49th country.

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Though not terribly photogenic and with nothing touristy, Sapporo proved a most enjoyable visit due to the relative calmness and cleanliness.

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Since the island of Hokkaido is infamous for getting a crudload of snow, covered pedestrian streets make more sense. Tanuki Kojo runs 14 blocks.

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Sapporo Clock Tower is a thing here.  It was built in 1876 for the Sapporo Agricultural College using the "American frontier architecture".

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Sapporo has 2.6 million people.

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Ramen yokocho...ramen alley.

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Settling into one of ten stools. Trying to hide my excitement.

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Miso ramen was invented here, and it was a delight to watch the master deftly prepare this bowl not a wasted movement. And it was 900 yen.  $6.

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Continuing to walk.

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And ice cream is a must. Well, soft serve, Japan is all about soft serve 'milk'.

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Back at Sapporo Station to retrieve my luggage and walking through yet another underground mall, can't see the end in any direction.

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After using Google Translate to get checked in at Shikihanamaru Tokeidai, jumped out of my skin in excitement being seated at the sushi bar.

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Sashimi Salad.

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Bigeye Tuna 
Salmon Gunkanmaki

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Minced Tuna. Stuffed silly and feeling guilty that my excitement yielded overordering and spending too much....then realized it was all $15USD.

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Sat by Odori Park's fountain enjoying the night air.

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And couldn't end the day without some more cremia.

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Being in Japan wanted to stay at a capsule hotel (stacked beds), finding a pod (floor to ceiling room) hotel in Sapporo went for it.  And really enjoyed it.  

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Splurged an extra $4 to get the $37 deluxe pod with a little aisle and desk.  The standard pods are mattress wall to wall.  Everything was very clean, smelled new and great sleep quality.

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Wednesday, September 4th, 2024

Morning run through Nakajima Park, on the south end of Sapporo.

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Japanese Pancakes, or as they are called here Pancakes, are souffle like.

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Little more walking before the next flight.  (Notice anything?)

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And good bye Sapporo, 45 minute train ride back to Chitose.

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Lunch at the airport. Google Translate told me these were mayo chicken nuggets. Indeed they were.

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The flight to Osaka....

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...actually went over Japan giving more of a tour.

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Further south you see how densely populated it is.

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Pork Katsu in Osaka.

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Thursday, September 5th, 2024 

Good morning from Osaka.

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Walking the 'downtown' Umeda district.

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Umeda Sky Buildings' two towers are linked by the Floating Garden Observatory.

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Heading to the subway.

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And walking to Osaka Castle.  It has moats.  Two moats.  My house needs a moat.

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How it appeared in 1583.

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The castle was rebuilt in the 1620s, burnt down after being struck by lightening in 1665 and rebuilt in 1931.

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The views from the Castle showcase the immensity of Osaka.

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Subway back to Osaka station to grab a train for the hour ride north to Kyoto.

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Watching the countryside.

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Arriving at Kyoto Station, Japan's 2nd largest building.

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Kyoto was the capitol of Japan from 794 to 1868.  Pretty long run!

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The Buddhist Higashi Hongan-ji Temple was built in 2004. Kidding. 1602 and 1895.

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Kyoto has 1.5 million people.

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Downtown is a grid of narrow streets.

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With a few main thoroughfares featuring covered sidewalks.

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Gontaro has been handmaking noodles for a century.

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Tenzaru- Soba with tempura
Zaru- Udon sprinkled with seaweed

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Nishiki Market is a narrow pedestrian market intersecting downtown.

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Many tantalizing food options.  Had crab, strawberries and matcha ice cream.

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NW of downtown, Nijo Castle allows a view of the shogun world from 1603.

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And it had a moat. Further reinforcing the idea my house needs a moat.

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Subway back to Kyoto station, train to Osaka Station. Walk to another station.

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Another subway.

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South to Shinsaibashi.

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Taking in the night.

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Amerika-mura is a gritty neighborhood of youth.

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Dotonbori!

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The flashy nightlife area of Osaka straddling the canal of the same name.

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Takoyaki are pieces of octopus cooked in a circular griddle.

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There was some girl group performance everyone seemed enamored about.

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This canal actually goes back 400 years when a businessman wanted to commercialize this area.  It worked.

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More of the main drag parallels that canal.

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Between people and sign food watching.

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The BEST mochi.

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Heading back to subway, um, see the 'nurses'?

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Friday, September 6th, 2024

Good morning from Osaka.

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Chestnut and Red Bean Donut from Umeda Station.

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Shinkansen! Bullet train!

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It took an hour and a half to get to Hiroshima. A regular train takes 6.

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Nishi-Akashi
Countryside

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Okayama
Fukuyama

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Countryside

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Welcome to Hiroshima.

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This port city is at the convergence of (7) rivers.

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Nagarekawa is a big nightlife street.

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Amazing to be here after reading so much about it.

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Down an alley on the 2nd floor of a grungy building are okonomiyaki stalls.

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Using wide angle lense to get all of this popular stall in.

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Watching the creation of an okonomiyaki- batter, cabbage, bonito, pork, soba, egg, sauce.

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This is several meals!  Though I watched a tiny teenage girl next to me polish the whole thing off.

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Hondori Shopping Street

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Have read so many books on WWII, the Manhattan Project, Enola Gay, Little Boy, the bombing, the destruction, the stories of individual victims, the aftermath of this horror; being there it became very emotional.  Knowing the rivers were choked with bodies.  Those who lived had skin falling off.

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At 8:15AM on August 6th, 1945 Little Man detonated above where this was taken instantly killing an estimated 70,000. By the end of the year, it is estimated another 70,000 perished.
 
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Since the bomb exploded 600 meters above Industrial Promotion Hall, the shockwaves traveled straight down allowing it to remain standing.

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Peace Memorial Park was created in 1954.

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Bell of Peace
Mound of cremated remains
Children's Peace Monument
Flame of Peace
Pond of Peace

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Before and after. Peace and devastation.
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 140,000 tiles in Hiroshima National Peace Memorial Hall.

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Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum tells the stories of the victims.

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Closes with the history of the Manhattan project and the later nuclear race.

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Seemed a poignant moment with the youth on a school trip poising with a symbol of the destruction of their city.  Japan has long been one of America's greatest allies.  But other evils now lurk around the globe.

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Walking some more, past Hiroshima Castle.

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Good bye Hiroshima. Thanks for your peaceful atmosphere.

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Bullet train back to Osaka.

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Back in Osaka, subway to Dotonbori at dusk.

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More food- Takoyaki again and Rice Dumplings.  

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And more nightlife viewing.

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Back in the Umeda District getting a Tayaki.

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View of Osaka from the hotel.

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Saturday, September 7th, 2024

Good morning. Another Shinkansen to Tokyo.

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Acting like a local, and who can really tell, grabbed a bento from the Umeda Station to enjoy on the high speed ride.

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Watching the miles rolls by.

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Somewhere in those clouds is Mt. Fuji.

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Welcome to Ginza, Tokyo.

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Surely everyone knows in the basement level of Asian department stores are exquisite food halls.

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Yet another Pancake.

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The famed Mitsukoshi department store and Sony building.

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Walking through Chiyoda, the business district.

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Along Hibya-dori in the Chiyoda area.

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Moat around the Imperial Palace East National Gardens. My house really needs a moat.

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The Gardens and its buildings date from the Edo Castle period of the 1600s.

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Tokyo Station (built in 1914, destroyed by B-29s in 1945, rebuilt 1946), subway to...

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Shinjuku District.

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Another labyrinth of fascinating pedestrian streets.

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Narrow alleys along train lines packed with restaurants.

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Omoide Yokocho, an almost hidden alley of yakitori stands.

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Head swiveling back and forth down Omoide Yokocho.

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Too much to see.

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Yet another major intersection.

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And another.

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And another.

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Ice cream AND cheesecake at a subway station shop. Well yes please!

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Night falls.

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Why this is called the Times Square of Tokyo.

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Ever seen the 3D cat billboard? 

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Back to Tokyo Station, walking along the tracks every arch has a nice restaurant.

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Further down underneath the tracks is Yakitori Alley.

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Shitake, chicken, pig tongue, pork

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Good night from Ginza.

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Sunday, September 8th, 2024  

Good Morning from Senso-ji at the Hozomon Gate.

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This revered temple was built in 645.  Paint is holding up quite well.

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Crossing the Asakusa to Sumida District.

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Tokyo Skytree was completed in 2010.

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Views at 1,148 feet show how immense Tokyo is.

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 And Americans think NYC or LA are big.

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Pay extra to go up to 1,476 feet.

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Not worth the extra yen.

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Subway and more steps to get to Tsukiji Market.  This is where the original fish wholesaling was until it outgrew and moved to a new facility a bit south. Now it's touristy food stalls.

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Stand in line at Sushidai.

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It's long been a goal to dine here.

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Turns out pictures aren't allowed, so this is all I have.  There was a lot of sushi.

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Subway to Shibuya.

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The famed Shibuya Crossing.

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And it was an early afternoon on a Sunday.

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Imagine during a weekday rush hour.

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Exploring the labyrinth of pedestrian streets.

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Walking north.

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Best ice cream of the trip.  Organic milk ice cream, molasses, Hokkaido premium red bean rice flour dumplings, pumpkin seeds and green tea matcha.

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Walking towards Yoyogi.

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Takeshita is the stretch with anime shops.  Good thing it wasn't busy.

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See the rooftop?

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View from it.

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Back in Chiyoda.

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Walk to Ginza, turn down this alley.

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And find an astounding bowl of Chicken Paiten Ramen.

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Good night from Ginza.

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Monday, September 9th, 2024 

Subway to Chiyda (top) and another subway to Roppongi (bottom) districts.

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Tokyo Tower was built in 1958 and looks vaguely familiar.....

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Skytree has better views.

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More views

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Walking across Roppongi

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Tucked on a side street is Sarashina Horii.  Besides being a long time fixture that makes their own noodles, Tony Bourdain ate here.

Soba Noodles
Kakiage
Tamago-Yaki

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Roppongi Hills is a large complex of apartments, offices, malls, restaurants, theatres and more.

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Need electronics? Head to the NE to the Akihabara district.

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Dubbed Electric City, this is the place to get DVDs, anime, computers, digital cameras, parts, gaming and gadgets.

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1) Hate chains. 
2) Second time doing a McDs out of the country (other was India 
3) Custard Flurry and Tsukimi Pie (red bean, mochi, roasted soybean)

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Back to the greatest country in the world in the history of the world.

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