2 Countries
3 Cities
21 Restaurants
30 Bakeries
3 Ice cream shops
3 Coffee shops
The last trip was to be Cabo in February with Monika, Rodolfo, Rachel and Julia. That was the fourth time taking advantage of Monika’s gracious help to fly stand-by at a reduced fare of $260. But alas, the flight was overbooked by 1 and my two months of anticipation came crashing down at gate A19. If I would have left a day earlier I would have made it yet a work ethic factor prevented me from changing my requested days off.
By all accounts Monika, Rodolfo, Rachel and Julia had a great time.
Remember the November trip to Madrid with them? Yeah, that was the one where we ended up in Rome. With these two issues in the forefront it was with some trepidation that this trip was approached. The fifth time flying standby ($460 compared to the regular price of $512) certainly provided an aura of uncertainty!
Thursday, March 19th, 2009
The plan was to meet Monika & Rodolfo in Philadelphia for the international flight to Madrid. Prior to leaving Milwaukee I learned they had two chances of flights out of LAX and didn’t make the first one. I wouldn’t know if they made the second flight until getting to Philly. During my flight the debate of what to do if they didn’t make it competed with reading Theodore Rex, Edmund Morris’ biography of Theodore Roosevelt. Could I handle the stress of finding a hotel and navigating a country whose language I don’t know? Should I just stay in the U.S. and do a road trip of Pennsylvania?
They didn’t make it.
What to do?
Finding Internet access a search was commenced of checking prices of rental cars to do that road trip and of Madrid hotels. Envisioning the hassle of a long flight, navigating the subway and language barriers I decided on the PA road trip.
Took the shuttle to the off-site rental car agencies, rented one and got in the car doubting my decision. Called Monika & Rodolfo with an airfare question and hearing my confliction Monika encouraged me to go to Spain. That and a comment by Rodolfo that they were giving up on Madrid changed my mind. If I was ever to go this would be it.
Return car, back to the Internet, shopped hotels on kayak.com filtering by price and location, confirmed the rating of my choice on Tripadvisor.com and booked it.
Six hours and 20 minutes to...
Friday, March 20th, 2009
...Madrid.
3 subway lines later made it to the hotel and quickly commenced exploring.
Appropriately enough the first stop was an unplanned mercado. Markets are a great representation of a neighborhood and this one’s multiple meat, seafood & produce vendors competed admiringly.
Back to the subway and to the NE part of town. Mallorca was the initiation into quick serve tapas with numerous cases showcasing enticements. Ciabatta held the ubiquitous jamon.
Plaza de Independencia
Calle De Alcala is a major thoroughfare where intricate architecture rises above hectic traffic.
Plaza De Cibeles
The legendary Café Gijon...
...has pleasant inside seating...
...but a gorgeous day demanded terrace seating...
...for a crisp, refreshing salad featuring anchovies, tuna and olives. All it needed was a drizzle of Spanish olive oil.
Gelato in Madrid? OK.
Grand Via, a major West to East street.
Off of Plaza del Dos De Mayo is an old-fashioned bakery.
Every great city has a great urban park. New York has Central, London has Hyde, San Francisco has Golden Gate , Chicago has Grant. Stretching the eastern border of centro Madrid’s Retiro Jeronimos elegantly covers 350 meticulously maintained acres.
Grand boulevards, baroque fountains, al fresco, playgrounds, ice cream carts and gardens are well used and enjoyed.
All types of Spaniards were paddling, strolling, sunbathing, lounging and eating.
The rotating carousel isn’t needed to stop passerbys for Casa Mira’s renowned nougat.
Plaza De Canalejas
Plaza Puerto Del Sol
The constant flow of treat seekers subsided enough to get this picture of La Mallorquina before enjoying one of these Almond Cakes.
The hub of Madrid, Plaza Mayor’s vast rectangle is guarded by grand buildings evoking an air of storied pasts.
Real Jardin Botanico
These Travelogues are not supposed to about me, but to share what I’ve been lucky enough to see. But let’s face it- those are things that interest me. The usual tourist spots, engineering marvels, bakeries, old movie houses, legendary restaurants, markets and train stations. Stations are hubs of activity while being mirrors to the past. The immenseness of Estacion De Atocha makes it appear closer even when far way.
Inside houses a rainforest, in addition to train platforms.
Emerging from the subway near the hotel the food gods where smiling down. High on the ‘must eat’ list a churro was acquired after overcoming the language barrier from this gentleman’s street stand.
Crisp splines made gritty by a coating of sugar gave way to a still steaming moist interior.
Saturday, March 21st, 2009
Another subway ride later to watch the vendors set up at Aston Martin Mercado and purchase a pear for breakfast...
...and then a wheat roll from Ecuapan.
After waiting in line to get a train ticket at the aforementioned Estacion De Atocha for Toledo (not Ohio, explanation to follow) the next available train wasn’t until 12:20 giving me 2 hours to kill. It worked out well to be near the unexplored southern part of Retiro Jerominos. On the way there was an active outdoor book market.
Even at the 9AM hour the park was busy; very satisfying to see.
Just outside the eastern boundary of the park…a bakery!
Every nook and cranny of the park is well maintained, used and offers inviting views.
Toledo lies 70 km south of Madrid. This ancient stronghold was established in the 8th century in the horseshoe shaped bend of a river on a plateau giving it natural protection from invaders. The AVE, high speed train, takes a half hour allowing views of the Spanish countryside along the way.
Another fantastic train station.
A short 20 minutes walk into town presented a view of the position of Toledo.
Spent some time lulling around the plaza.
And was soon immersed in a web of cobblestone streets.
The mélange of streets and alleyways were seemingly endless.
Down one of these narrow alleys my prescouted lunch spot was found. I was grateful to find Cason de los Lopez Toledo full of locals.
Yeah, who would pass up this bakery?
Contrasting a city of small buildings crammed together Catedral dominates the skyline.
Meandering down an ally I lucked out finding a convent where Sisters handcraft mazapan.
Step inside this room:
Decide what you want from the window:
Ring the buzzer:
And place your order with the kind nun at the carousel:
And enjoy:
Every corner yielded another window to a past time and a Kodak moment.
Iglesia De Los Jesuitas was built from 1629-1765.
And its cupula provided inspirational views of the Toledo rooftops.
One more stop before leaving town for a suitably named Toledanas.
Walking back to the train station admired this view outside the city walls:
Another AVE then subway ride to the NW part of Madrid to find Plaza Espana pulsing with life.
The 4th century Templo De Debod was a gift from Egypt to Spain for help with construction of the Aswan Dam.
What was amazing where all the folks meandering about enjoying the weather and park.
Did I mention the bakery a block from the hotel? Every morning and night walking by it demanded a pause to absorb the wafting aromoas.
Sunday, March 22nd, 2009
Stretching for countless blocks El Rastro is the weekly Sunday morning flea market with a bohemian flair.
It was amazing to consider this effort is put on every week.
San Pedro
San Miguel
Ducked into Museo del Pan Gallego for some empanada.
Pleasingly elegant Plaza De Oriente features a half circle of gallant buildings complemented on the other half of the circle with handsome landscaping.
Next to it Palacio Real dominates the horizon.
The palace was built in 1738-1755 and used by royalty until 1931.
No pictures were allowed inside…so these are computer generated. The grandeur of the interior still can’t capture the pomp of a past time.
Next door is Catedral Almundena.
Yeah, who’s going to pass up this bakery?
The medieval Plaza De La Villa
The plentitude of activity everywhere was energetic.
Yeah, who’s going to pass up this charming storefront?
Way up on the ‘must go’ list Restaurante Botin is the world’s oldest restaurant opened in 1725.
The 1st and 2nd floors have timeless dining rooms.
But I was directed down the stairs.
To eat in the cellar.
Famous for their wood burning oven makes roasted suckling pig a menu highlight.
But I went with the 11 Euro Iberia Ham with Assorted Vegetables to get something healthy while still having the salty pork at a quarter the price of the whole pig.
To the west and below the palace Campo del Moro is a mosaic of arching pathways.
Back to Centro.
The gazillinth subway ride to the NW part of town I was walking along swearing off bakeries for the day…come on, who is going to pass up this window?
Teleferico Rosales-Casa De Campo is a cable car traveling over the expansive Caso De Campo park.
The ride takes 22 minutes and offers views of the rolling park and distant skyline.
Subway back to central Madrid to walk around Plaza Puerto Del Sol and surrounding pedestrian streets. All the while marveling at the vibe and well trodden streets.
Having spotted Fresc Co earlier it was an ideal dinner option. A take away buffet for 4 Euros I loaded up...
...and headed to eat at Plaza Mayor.
Monday, March 23rd, 2009
Left the hotel at 7:30AM and to the airport by 9:30. Thanks to Monika I had the option to upgrade to first class for $100 each way. I had bypassed it on the way to Madrid rationalizing the hotel was costing more as a solo traveler and it wouldn’t be as appreciated on an overnight flight. That was assuming I would sleep which I hadn’t.
Now I decided to treat myself for this 8 hour flight. It wasn’t the first time in first class, but was for a transatlantic flight. Giddy like a 10 year old I outwardly tried to act like this was old hat while feeling I didn’t belong. How many of these people paid $3,000 for this?! Anxiously checked out the 12-way power seat, LCD, footrest, 3 windows and package of French lip balm/toothbrush/skin lotion/eye mask.
These pictures show me reaching as far as I can and still not touching the seat in front of me and enjoying a hot towel after take-off.
After white table linen service the cavalcade of food starts.
Fresh seasonal fruit.
Pan-seared scallops tossed in a green pesto and red pepper sauce.
Roasted sweet red pepper filled with feta cheese marinated in an infusion of olive oil and select herbs.
Smoked, sesame-encrusted duck breast with mango chutney and a marinated asparagus spear.
Fresh pan-seared salmon with cream dill sauce; seasoned sautéed spinach and roasted cherry tomato; golden saffron rice.
Apricot caramel tart.
Warm tortilla wrap with seasonal mixed salad.
Honestly the food wasn’t that good, but it was fun and much better than what they were getting back in cattle class.
Arrive at Philadelphia International Airport and bide time until the flight back home. Check work e-mail a few times, walk every terminal. Long story short: flight overbooked and I am stuck in Philly for the night. Start looking for a hotel stressed out of my mind about missing a day of work. The flight tomorrow is at 1:45PM.
Tuesday, March 24th, 2009
Check work e-mail before 5AM.
Besides being stressed about missing work it was killing me to consider being gone a day and not getting anything out of it. A plan was quickly formulated to get to downtown Philly. During a Mid-Atlantic States trip in 2002 all the Philly sites were thoroughly covered leaving only a few regrets to rectify.
As luck would have it there was a Septa train stop near the hotel taking 20 minutes to get downtown. Wanting to get back to the hotel with time to check work e-mail I aimed at catching the 9:55AM train so sprinted the following preplanned route in 2 hours.
Yeah, like the first tourist here. Then off at full gallop for 26 blocks.
The Italian Market was just getting under way.
Always regretted not eating at the two giants of cheesesteaks. Lying on either ends of an X intersection Pat’s and Geno’s compete for the claim of best cheesesteak.
Pat’s was founded in 1930 when inventing the cheesesteak using chopped meat from a butcher shop in the nearby Italian Market.
Both cheesesteaks were ordered “wit wiz” and fried onions. Pat’s roll had the requisite crusty exterior and chewy interior but the beef was tough.
Geno’s was started by the exuberant Joey Vento in 1966 whose dad opened Jim’s Steaks in 1940, where I ate in 2002.
Joey Vento himself assembled my cheesesteak. This was the clear winner with tender steak intermingling with au jus, oozy cheese and succulent onions.
Dashed the 16 blocks to Independence Hall and the Liberty Bell.
Since 1892 Reading Terminal market is an obvious lure and worth a return visit.
Housed in a classic mammoth building this market has 80 purveyors of produce, meat, florists, lunch counters, pottery, jewelry and gourmet markets.
The second regret from the previous trip was visiting the market on a day the Amish don’t work and not getting a Dutch pretzel. Alas, same deal this time. So I counseled myself by hitting every bakery open.
Robust whole wheat from Metropolitan Bakery
Italian delights from Termini Bros.
Sugary cinnamon goodness at LeBus Bakery.
And at the comically named Flying Monkey Patisserie....
....how is this college of everything relished?
Chinatown is nearby.
And that means bakeries. (Is this getting old?) Well versed in Chinese and Mexican bakeries I seek out untried items, while at times resorting to old favorites.
From Bread Top House this Date Cake was eye-popping delicious in a dense fashion.
Curried Pork made a savory choice at Mayflower.
My, oh, my. Wish I would have gotten a cut away shot of this Pork Sauce Cake from Mong Kok Station but was too busy maiming it. Airy sponge cake defied logic with small air pockets was separated in half vertically by a thin layer of custard and topped with a mystery dusting. One of the best bakery items I’ve ever had.
The Red Bean Paste Cake from Zhong Gang Bakery was one of those stalwarts whose glutinous texture always delights.
With a less refined interior K.C. Pastries choice featured a preserved egg.
Like bean curd, coconut, custard and pineapple; taro is a common Chinese ingredient as seen here from Tieru Banh A Chau.
9:55- Catch train
10:15- Back at hotel, check out
10:20- On Internet for work e-mail
11:00- Leave for airport
11:15- Airport
11:20- au bon pain for a 7 Grain Honey Bagel for later in the week
11:40- Lunch
12:15- Flight starts to board
12:30- Find out flight is overbooked. Again. Next flight at 5:55PM.
12:40- Put together a contingency plan
12:45- Dunkin’ Donuts
12:50- Back at Internet place. They’ve known me since the 19th. Go through work e-mail.
1:30- Walk Terminals A and A West
2:15- Chicken sample from Asian Chao
2:16- Frozen yogurt from Freshens
2:25- Walk Terminal C
2:35- Steamer from Saxbys Coffee (skim, sugar free flavor shot)
3:00- Work e-mail
3:30- -Bid farewell to Internet guys. They respond, “See you later.”
4:00- Check on flight room
4:05- Walk Terminal F and B/C Connector
4:45- Samples out at Terminal F au bon pain
5:25- Get seat assignment. High five gate agent.
6:00- Flight takes off
Commentary (Optional reading)
Madrid
There was never any compulsion to visit Madrid. Was just looking forward to hanging out with my friends. Yet it was no surprise this was a rewarding adventure with inspiring character lurking everywherer. One doesn’t need any effort to find that ‘old world charm’. There were the frequent thoughts of not sharing it with my amigos.
Language
It’s often said that you can get by with English in most foreign cities. I’ve never had the attitude of believing others have to capitulate to me. I’m the foreigner; I will have to get by. In Madrid very few people spoke English and those who did it was “very little”. Besides the airport no signs were in English.
The Mess
Will the 2 days it took to get home taint the memory of the adventure? Time will tell if those frustrations will erode.
Cost
Flight: $460 ($512 is the regular fare)
Hotel: $208
Metro Pass: $23.40
Train to Toledo: $25.15
Sites: $21
Food, bakeries: $166
What’s my point? Often high cost is an excuse used not to travel and I argue it can be done affordably. This was one of my most expensive trips- in fact the third highest airfare after Brasil and London (those weren’t stand-by). And I couldn’t split any costs. Go travel! The experience is remembered long after the price is forgotten.
A public gracias to Monika for arranging the flights and a heavy heart that they could not make it.