Morocco

Time to explore my 44th country.

Saturday, November 19th, 2022 

Landing at Mohammed V Airport outside of Casablanca.

Driving from Casablanca to Rabat.

   

Welcome to Rabat, the political capitol of Morocco, founded in the 12th century.

Went for an hour and 15 minute run.

Up for 24 hours, but needed to run.

Assounna Mosque is the oldest in Rabat, 18th century.

Ran to the other side of the medina.

New and old.  To the right is the 7th century Phoenician city Chellah.  

Back to the medina, ran the wall and through town.

   

Sunset from the hotel roof.

Sunday, November 20th, 2022 

Good morning.

 

Not sure what breakfast was, but it was yummy.

Rabat was Muslims from Spain in the 15th century, 17th pirates and 18th century Alauite kingdom.

 

A Muslim cemetery. Apparently, when they are full they are built over. Um, maybe watch Poltergeist.

Kasbah of the Udayas was all of Rabat when it was founded in the 12th century.  Now it is a historic district.  

Admiring the main gate.

 

The BMW M3 chase scene from Mission Impossible Rogue Nation was filmed on these steps.

The Kasbah has this main thoroughway.

With alleys branching off of it.

 

Hassan Tower towers over what was going to be the largest mosque in the western Muslim world. Construction was abandoned for unknown reasons in 1199.  All that remains are some pillars.

Across from it is Mohammed V Mausoleum.

From the Kasbah looking over the Atlantic and Oued Bou Regreg (river) to Sales (a town pronounced sallies).

Off to the Royal Palace.

 

It's much nicer inside, but not open to commoners.

Heading east out of Rabat.

 

Meknes is one of the four imperial cities of Morocco.

Situated among rolling hills.

Meat on skewers is a Moroccan thing too.  Actually ate fries.  They were that good.

 

Olives are a major crop in Morocco.

 

Volubilis was a Roman city from the 3rd to 11th century.

It covered 42 hectares with current excavations totaling 16 hectares.

While not as well preserved as some Roman sites throughout Europe circling around Israel (my favorites), it is AMAZING to imagine this city.

Romans really built things to last.

There were several mosaics.

   

Imagine each tile made by hand.

   

The main road lined with shops.

Ending at the Triumph Arch.  Built in 216.  How fantastic is that?!

One of the homes.

Couldn't take it all in and comprehend what it must have been like.

This home had pillars of various styles around a pool fed by an aqueduct.

 

A hot tub in another home.

The 1820 Lisbon earthquake leveled much of what had been left.

On to the next city, rolling over the hills.

Passing through small towns.

 

It was nighttime by the time I got out of the hotel in Fes. At this boulevard, there were automatic weapon totting police.

It was nerve wracking trying to cross the street.

Ducked into a mall to escape that mayhem.

 

And it may also have been to get froyo (pretty sure it was strawberry) and gelato (pretty sure it was fig).

 

And to grab a few things at the familiar Carrefour (French based chain, been to a few in other countries).

 Good night.

 

Monday, November, 21st, 2022

Still in Fes heading to its Fez el-Bali.

   

Fez el-Bali is the world's oldest active medieval city.

   

 

Entering through one of the 13 gates.

   

There are 10,000 alleyways.

   

Much of it reminded me of other souks seen in Egypt, Israel, UAE and India.

   

More shoes than I have...but not as organized.

   

 

No cars, just donkeys.

   

   

There are areas with specialties, like this one for dying fibers.

   

   

   

Place Seffarine is one of only two squares.

   

This gentleman makes these pans from scratch.

   

While the exteriors of homes don't give away if they are rich or poor, some are like this.

   

 

All among the most humble of conditions.

   

You can't begin to imagine the tannery odor.  They use pigeon poo for its ammonia needed in the tanning process.  600 skins are in the vats at any given time.  They rest for 2 months while being soaped, scrubbed and polished.  

   

Bakery!

   

With all the depravity, it's easy to miss scenes like this.

 

Al-Attarine Madrassa was a school in the 1300s.

   

Students lived here for 4 years to become Imams.

   

I couldn't fit all my shoes in this room let alone live here for 4 years!

   

Can't see them, but flies all over.

   

   

   

   

   

Alleys at every turn.

   

After taking this, the cute little girl started posing.

   

   

   

The other square.

   

Got to a rooftop for this shot.

   

It was hard to get pictures of wares, since any pause and you'd get assaulted with sales pressure.

   

   

Tight quarters is common.

   

   

   

 

Now in the Jewish Quarter.

   

This part was like a yard sale.

   

The world over, everyone just trying to make a buck. Or Dirham.

   

   

   

   

 Royal Palace.

   

 Down a non-descript side street.

   

Is an ornate doorway.

   

That opens up to a different world.

   

 

This is (5) former homes turned into a hotel and restaurant.

   

Reminded me of a simpler version of my own house.

   

Dinner was in the courtyard.

   

Typical Moroccan apps include pumpkin, cauliflower, olives, eggplant, lentils and carrots.

   

Camel

 

Ktefa

   

Waiter gave access to the roof.

Wednesday, November 23rd, 2022

Fes to Marrakesh takes 6 hours.

 
 

Some of the scenery on the way.

  Gas station stop.

 Continuing on.

Stopping for lunch.

   

At a gas station.

   

No roller dogs here!

   

 

Lamb Tajine

   

 

There are cats all over Morocco. My friend here had some lamb. Didn't want carrots.

   

 Back on the road.

  Welcome to Marrakesh. On Haouz Plain at the foot of the High Atlas mountains.

Passing through the city wall.

   

Past Koutoubia Mosque.

   

 

And into another world. Jemaa el Fna is the heartbeat of Marrakesh.

   

Once a meeting point for farmers and tradesman, it a crazy amalgamation of sites, sounds and smells.

   

 

Fresh juice. No thanks!

   

 

Produce, fresh herbs, prepared foods.

   

 

Tongues of many languages.

   

It is one of the largest squares in the world.

    

   

 Sensory overload.

   

 

Delving into the souks.

   

 

There are 8,000 vendors in the souks alone.

   

Don't need a supermarket!

   

 

Walked for two hours.

   

 

And didn't make a dent.

   

 

Thinking the world over people trying to make a living.

Another labyrinth of going back in time.

   

 And how can a local make a choice with so many options.

   

   

 

Night falls on Jemaa el Fna.

   

 

The activity increases.

   

 

Lots of snake charmers.

   

More police with automatic pew-pews.

   

Walked back west for a while to this mall for gelato. It was 12 dirhams (like $1.10), I gave her 20 dirhams, she didn't have enough change, I was OK with that.

Thursday, November 24th, 2022

Back at the 12th century Koutoubia Mosque.

 

Heading back into the medina.

Into the Kasbah.

   

How's that for atmosphere?

   

Saadian's Tombs were discovered in 1917 after being hidden for 300 years.

   

Constructed from 1578 to 1603 for Sultan Ahmad Al Mansour.

   

Into the Jewish Quarter.

   

   

An amazing world.

   

   

Just kept wandering with every turn another image.

   

Yep, circled back to Jemaa el Fna.

   

One really needs to be on their toes with all the vendors.

   

Since they are all after your dirham.

   

Back into the souks.

   

Stopping for lunch at a local's place.

   

Here is to hoping it is sanitary.

   

Chicken with preserved lemon. 38 dirham. So like $3.50.

   

Back on the square.

   

And into the souks. Again. Amazing.

   

Produce on a moped....

   

 

Rabbit or chicken for dinner?

   

Night is falling.

   

 

So out come more food vendors.

   

Crazy, right?

   

An entire area of olive stalls.

   

 

Cooking far underground.

   

Ate some sheep head.

   

 

Ate some snails.

   

In a dark back alley.

   

Had the best couscous ever.

   

This is a level below the souk. This guy feeds garbage into that furnace to heat water for the medina. He makes $7 a day. No benefits.

   

 

A typical community bread oven.

   

Moroccan donuts. And not that good.

   

 

Nightlife at Jemaa el Fna. You can't imagine it.

 

Friday, November 25th, 2022 

The drive to Casablanca took 3 hours.

   

Casablanca was laid out by the French in 1912.  Morocco gained its independence in 1956.

           

It is the economic hub of Morocco.

   

That French influence is underneath the pallor of decades.

   

It's sad to see the poor state of all the buildings, yet amazing to think of its past.

   

Mohammed V Square.

   

Imagine how great that Art Deco once looked.

  

It is a sprawling city of poor to rich.

            

La Corniche, like an Atlantic promenade, has seen better days too.

The 1942 classic with Bogie and Ingrid Bergman was filmed in Burbank. Making this a tourist opportunity. (Notice the drying underwear?)

 

Hassan II Mosque is the 4th largest in the world.

 

Part of it is built over the Atlantic.

Built 24/7 from 1987 to 1993.

Main hall holds 25,000.

  

Has a retraceable roof.

   

 

The lower level is where the ritual washing is performed.

   

View from hotel.

   

And the neighborhood to the north. Now very sketchy, but look at those buildings!

   

What a downfall.

   

Luckily, I was left alone.

 

Saturday, November 26th, 2022

Hassan II Mosque is prominent on the skyline of Casablanca.

   

Over France.

 

After 26 hours of no sleep, 3 planes and 4 airports got home.