4 States
9 Days
2,518 Miles
35 Restaurants
46 Bakeries
12 Ice Cream Shops
1 Chocolate Shop
3 Sonic America’s Drive-In (there are only 4 in NY) (total is now 166 in 22 states)
5 Whole Foods Markets (including 2 repeats)
Saturday, July 2nd, 2011
Flying into White Plains I couldn’t be so close to NYC without heading into Manhattan to cross another high end restaurant off the list.
Checked into the hotel and bypassed the subway to walk the streets and soak in the exhilarating atmosphere, vibe and energy.
The unassuming wd-50. Helmed by Wylie Dufresne and located at 50 Clinton Street this is a coveted reservation.
Marinated fluke
Aerated foie, pickled beet, mashad plum, brioche
Cold fried chicken, buttermilk-ricotta, tabasco, caviar
Eggs benedict
Strolled through East Village, across Chinatown, up Little Italy (pause for that Tart) and across lower Manhattan (love red bean paste).
David Chang rocketed to foodie fame after opening Momofuku Noodle Bar in 2003. His empire has expanded to include Momofuku Milk Bar. The trademarked Compost Cookie contains pretzels, butterscotch, potato chips and chocolate chips.
The line wrapping around Madison Square Park attested to Shake Shack’s reputation and I can attest their Vanilla Custard is outstanding.
Before it opened last year I’ve been eagerly following Eataly. This Italian complex was created by Mario Batali and features products, a bakery, meat counter, several eateries, produce, fresh pasta and gelato.
Top of the Rock- 69 stories up Rockefeller Center. The Empire State Building lit up in red, white and blue. The glow to the right is Times Square.
Sunday, July 3rd, 2011
The Wyndham had a fitness center..but I’m in New York City! Ran up Madison Avenue, over to Times Square and past Fox News.
Café Edison. Timeless.
David Chang’s ma peche.
Oxtail Hash with Farm Fresh Eggs and Multi-Grain Toast. Outstanding hash.
Midtown location of Momofuku Milk Bar for Crack Pie.
Headed out of the Big Apple and up the Hudson Valley.
Sunnyside is Washington Irving’s home perched along the Hudson River. Considered the Father of American Literature he wrote Rip Van Winkle, The Legend of Sleepy Hallow and biographies of George Washington and Christopher Columbus.
Tarrytown
Peekskill was a charmer...oh, there’s a panaderia.
Robert E. Lee, Ulysses S. Grant, George Custer, John Pershing, Douglas MacArthur, George Patton, Dwight Eisenhower, Omar Bradley, Matthew Ridgway, Brent Scowcroft, Norman Schwarzkopf.
A partial list of West Point Graduates. Amazing men. Reading numerous biographies of these and other WP graduates made visiting this hallowed ground stirring.
Kingston
Monday, July 4th, 2011
It’s a tradition. State capitol in Albany.
Dual appeal in Victorian era Ballston Spa residentially and in their quaint downtown.
This friendly town required stopping at the colorful Coffee Planet for a Blueberry Cobbler.
Downtown Saratoga Springs casts ripples of time with its polished historic buildings reflecting a rich past.
I lucked out arriving at the start of their 4th of July parade observing abundant Norman Rockwell images.
Bertie’s Cakes called this the Jolly Rancher Cupcake. I called it a Smurf Cupcake. But then again Smurfs would probably taste like chicken.
As a 10 year old the 1980 Lake Placid Winter Olympics left an indelible image. Today’s ties to those and the 1932 games include the bobsled runs and ski jumps outside of town and venues in town.
The town itself is a charmer perched on the namesake lake.
Village Bakery didn’t even have any cases presumably from goodies flying right off the baking racks like this Berry Muffin.
Way up in northern NY on the St. Lawrence Seaway a viewing platform allows watching the Eisenhower Lock in action. It was unexplainably fascinating.
The Adirondacks were delightful. Roads serpentine through rolling hills blanketed in deciduous with towns small in size yet large in ambience.
Ice cream stands ornamented the twisting roads and every town was on a small lake with families setting up lawn chairs and blankets for Independence Day fireworks.
Tuesday, July 5th, 2011
Along a remote county road in central NY Martins Pretzels uses the traditional Dutch Pennsylvania method.
Near the Canadian border Alexandria Bay is kitschy yet inviting.
Accessed by a ferry from Alex Bay, Boldt Castle is perched on Heart Island centered in the Saint Lawrence Seaway.
This 6 story home was built by Waldorf Astoria owner George Boldt for his wife.
Construction started in 1900 and then halted in 1904 when she abruptly passed away.
It was left untouched until 1977 when $15 million was spent to complete it.
An absolutely gorgeous day made strolling the grounds and house all that more enjoyable.
Back in Alexandria Bay this perfect day and waterfront setting forced getting some food and wandering around.
Motoring along a county highway spotting this barn forced a U-turn. And seeing Banana Bread recently out of the ancient oven made the choice easy.
Headed west driving along Lake Ontario.
Lockport is one of the foremost towns associated with the Erie Canal.
Ted’s has been charcoal broiling dogs since 1927 in Tonawanda, just north of Buffalo.
Anderson’s Frozen Custard. Marvelous texture. AND fat and sugar free.
The other famed hot dog place in Tonawanda is Louie's Foot Long Hot Dogs.
Established in 1935 Anchor Bar invented Buffalo Wings in 1964.
I’ve never cared for wings and since it is 3 forms of fat (oil, skin, dark meat) avoid them. These...were...AWESOME.
Wednesday, July 6th, 2011
It’s been about 35 years so due to go into full-tilt-tourist-mode at Niagara Falls.
American Falls, Goat Island, Horseshoe Falls and Canada.
American Falls is named from…duh!
Horseshoe Falls on the Canadian side is named…duh!
In 1901 Theodore Roosevelt was vacationing with his family in the Adirondacks when it was telegraphed President McKinley wasn’t going to survive a bullet wound. Making haste he road down the mountain and took 2 trains to get to Buffalo and then took a carriage to this house.
This library was packed with 50 people as he took the oath of office.
Beef on Weck is a regional staple and refers to roast beef on kummelweck. Schwabl’s has been doing them since 1837.
The caraway and salt of the bread highlights the cut-to-order sumptuous beef.
Heading to the SW corner of NY passed through Amish country which means…bakery!
Lucille Ball was born and raised in Jamestown.
The town features not one, but 2 museums. The Luci-Desi Museum features outfits and biographies.
The Desilu Playhouse includes a replica of the I Love Lucy set.
Mark Twain married an Elmira native, summered there for 20 years, wrote in a small cottage and is buried here.
Thursday, July 7th, 2011
An invigorating run through Ithaca’s pedestrian Commons and then up the STEEP hills to see Cornell University.
It was the first time getting a tad winded during a run. (Don’t tell anyone.)
Since 1960 Shortstop Deli has been celebrated for its toasted Hot Truck Subs.
Harris Diner. Owego.
Red Robin Diner. 1950. Johnson City.
Sonic’s Strawberry Dream Ice Cream Sundae Shake. A sippable sundae. It was strawlicious.
Even those of us who don’t like sports know there is no denying the American pastime of baseball and that passion lives in busy Cooperstown.
Sharon Springs
Another U-turn. Dairyland for fat free, no sugar added Raspberry Twirl.
Schoharie
Drove through the Catskills which were not impressive, accentuated by comparing them to the wonderful Adirondacks.
Monticello is in the southern part of the state and home to Heimish Bakery intriguingly located in a gas station. Buying by the pound allowed trying several of their kosher goodies.
Innocently leaving town there were 2 more bakeries. Sigh. OK.
New Paltz’s downtown was shockingly active on a Thursday night.
Friday, July 8th, 2011
Crossed the Mid-Hudson Bridge to the east side of the Hudson Valley.
Small, amiable and comfortable Millbrook.
Millbrook Diner. 1952.
Village Diner. 1920s. Red Hook.
Photogenic Rhinebeck and a Berry Muffin.
There were 8 siblings in the 3rd generation of Vanderbilts and they had 43 mansions. This one in Hyde Park is the smallest.
FDR- 3rd worse president? 4th? So why am I visiting the next 2 sites?
1) Any reading on WWII, Dwight Eisenhower or Winston Churchill invariably includes him. I routinely read about all 3. (Have also read FDR by Jean Edward Smith which proved to be a thorough biography highlighting him being a momma’s boy, his non-marriage and explosion of government).
2) Regardless he was a pivotal person in world history.
3) Like visiting the Truman Presidential Library this was being open minded.
4) Yes, I’m making excuses.
This is the home FDR was born in and lived in until his death. His mother had an adjoining room to his when he was married. Weird.
The Franklin Roosevelt Presidential Library and Museum was the first Presidential Library and only one used by a sitting president. Looked high and low and could not find anything about Lucy Mercer, Missy LeHand, faking documents to get us into the war before Pearl Harbor or making a recession a depression. There was a blurb about the internment of Japanese-Americans.
Excited! It was a thrill to stroll the grounds and hallways of the Culinary Institute of America after reading such books as Michael Ruhlman’s The Making of a Chef and Tony Bourdain’s Kitchen Confidential; and from knowing their impressive list of graduates.
CIA was started in 1946 with 50 students and today has 3000 who besides culinary arts study finance and management.
It’s like any college campus, expect students wear white chef’s jackets, checkered pants and black Croc’s; and carry knives with their books.
American Bounty is one of 5 restaurants on campus entirely staffed by students.
Pan Seared Scallops
Crispy Potato, Tomato Basil Fondue, Mache Salad
Warm Duck Confit Salad
Frisee, Red Onion Jam, Pecan Crusted Goat Cheese
Yeah, any place with an ice cream cone on the roof and stripes is a required stop.
Headed into Connecticut first stopping in tony Ridgefield for their famed ice cream.
New Haven is home to 2 food institutions. Founded in 1925 Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana is one of the country’s most famous pizzerias.
Check out this picture from left to right- assembling the pies, the square wood trays of proofed dough and the original coal oven.
The Original Tomato Pie with Fresh Clams.
Also on this Italian street is Libby’s Pastry for the obvious choice of a Cannoli.
Started in 1895, Louis’ Lunch is one of 3 places claiming to invent the hamburger.
You can see the 3 original cast iron vertical grills.
Oh, the things I do to my wallet and waistline for the sake of culinary exploring.
Saturday, July 9th, 2011
The required morning run went through Yale and the New Haven Green.
O’Rourke’s Diner. 1941. Middletown.
And in Brooklyn for a huge Apple Fritter and dense Fig Bar.
Zip’s Diner. 1950. Dayville.
Crossed Rhode Island to Aunt Betty and Uncle Ben’s on the east side of the Barrington River for the family get together.
Enjoying the weather and water with cousin Jeff and second cousin Lauren (officially the most adorable one in the gathering). Cousin-in-law Liz was at the bow.
If Aunt Betty is involved there is a lot of food.
No, this isn’t a spread for Bon Appetit magazine; it is Aunt Betty’s clam bake setting.
Soon, a rare silence fell as everyone focused on opening clams and dipping them in their own broth. From left then clockwise: Uncle Harry, his wife Joyce, cousin-in-law Jean, cousin Michael, second cousin Morgan, her friend Trevin, Lauren is hidden, second cousin Madison, cousin-in-law Liz, cousin Jeff, Uncle Ben, Mom, stepdad Jim and Aunt Betty.
Out to go crabbin’ at dusk.
No, this isn’t a spread for Bon Appetit magazine; it is Aunt Betty’s dessert table.
Three lovely ladies.
Sunday, July 10th, 2011
A day of taking care of the ‘punch list’ of sites and eateries in Massachusetts left over from past trips.
Angelo’s Orchid Diner in New Bedford. Grizzled on the outside, real on the inside.
Shrewsbury in the central part of the state.
Wrapping things up in the dense suburbs of greater Boston.
Deluxe Town Diner. 1947. Watertown.
How great is this?! The décor, the character, the throngs of patrons.
They are known for their Deluxe Sour Cream Pancakes which I selected with blueberries.
What else are you going to get at The Danish Pastry House in Medford?
Despite passing through Cambridge a few times over the years haven’t spent any real time there since 1986.
It was emotional to cross Harvard Yard and imagine the great men who also strolled it. John Adams, John Quincy Adams, Teddy Roosevelt, George W. Bush.
Award winning Toscani’s Blueberry Sorbet.
Back to Logan for the direct flight home. And to harsh reality. Sigh....