1 State
4 Islands (Manhattan, Long, Liberty & Ellis)
37 Restaurants
40 Bakeries
4 Chocolate shops
3 Ice cream shops
2 Drink stops
All year I’ve had a hankering to return to New York City. To eat at high end restaurants. You see, I’ve thoroughly explored the great city including immersion in the character rich neighborhoods, reveled in the tourist sites, took many building tours, chowed at legendary delis, saw a Letterman show, braved Harlem, evaluated hot dog/papaya juice stands, cautiously walked parts of The Bronx and carbed out at countless bakeries. I ambled all five boroughs stunned at the endless array of personality.
Despite dining at many high end establishments including Babbo, Jean-Georges, Aureole, Delmonico’s, Peter Lugar Steak House and Tavern on the Green there were many, many more yearning for my taste buds' attention.
So, when Monika & Rodolfo invited me to join them for a long weekend I didn’t hesitate to accept. And if you know how my mind works the gears started turning, “I’ll go out early and be able to hit more restaurants.” Then I struck upon a plan to also integrate Long Island into the excursion.
Monday, October 5th, 2009
Made haste to get out of LaGuardia and got the rental car stowed at an Upper East Side parking garage by 11AM. Soon was walking through Central Park and down 5th Avenue stopping at Barney’s, respecting the Holy grandeur of St. Patrick’s Cathedral and admiring the 1930’s art deco of Rockefeller Center.
Le Bernardin
Chef: Eric Ripert
Gourmet Top 50: # 10
New York Times: 4/4 Stars
Michelin: 3/3 Stars
Zagat: Best in the U.S.
James Beard Awards
Langoustine
Seared Langoustine, Mache, Wild Mushroom Salad, Shaved Foie Gras, White Balsamic Vinaigrette
Mahi Mahi
Grilled Mahi Mahi; Potato-Saffron Emulsion and Picholine-Fennel Salad
Custard
Yuzu
Yuzu Parfait, Meringue, Green Tea Biscuit and Ice Cream
Eric Ripert’s rep with seafood was confirmed. My bias for foie gras was proven with it making the first course by lending a rich creaminess. Service was most able if not a distracted head of the 3 member team.
The first of many passings through the fantastic Beau Arts beauty of Grand Central Station.
Then next door into one of my favorite buildings to marvel at the wonderful lobby of the Chrysler Building. That is red Moroccan marble and the masterpieces of Art Deco elevator doors have an intricate inlay of exotic hardwoods.
It’s puzzling to regret missing touring the UN in 2005 (it was closed that month) since I don’t believe in the UN. However, you can’t deny its historical context.
Entering the General Assembly Hall my mind immediate went to Dwight Eisenhower in 1953, “My country wants to be constructive, not destructive. It wants agreements, not wars, among nations. It wants itself to live in freedom, and in the confidence that the people of every nation enjoy equally the right of choosing their own way of life.”
Raisin Bran Muffin.
Icon of retailing- Bloomingdale’s
Dylan’s Candy Bar was worth a revisit to get a jolt of all the color and whimsy. BTW, Dylan is Dylan Lauren- Ralph’s daughter.
Daniel
Chef: Daniel Boulud
Gourmet Top 50: #9
New York Times: 4/4 Stars
Michelin: 3/3 Stars
Entering the fancy lobby I kept noticing colossal floral arrangements being delivered. It turns out Daniel received his third Michelin star that day.
Tasting of Salmon
Maine Peekytoe Crab Salad
Celery, Walnut Oil, Granny Smith Sauce
Marinated Fluke with Seaweed
Pine Nuts, Radishes, Matsutake Mushrooms, Bonito Gelee
Caramel & Bites
Standout service by the 2 member waitstaff including an appreciated effort to engage by the French accented gentleman.
Tuesday, October 6th, 2009
Off to see what Long Island is about.
Great Neck has a pleasant little shaded downtown....
....and some bakeries. First it was a Whole Wheat Bagel, then Egg Bagel and the guy at Bruce’s Bakery made the decision easy producing a tray of just-out-of-the-oven muffins. At Koryodang the White Bean Cake was addictive.
Apple Streusel Cupcake in Huntington. The apple cancels out the sugar, butter and oil....right?
The harbor view is an introduction into Northport .
Then Copenhagen Bakery bookends the nostalgic Main Street.
The arch of Stony Brook’s green evokes an idyllic New England village.
Population and all its accouterments thinned out moving east on Long Island. Farms became standard with You Pick Em signs offering participation with nature to locals.
It took every pound of willpower not to stop at every “farmhouse baked” stand as not to return home many pounds heavier. Only one stop for this Apple Tart.
Orient Point is the very end of Long Island’s northern peninsula.
Rolling down Hwy 24 it was time to see what the 40 mile stretch of coastline cumulatively referred to as the Hamptons is like.
The introduction to Southampton was the refined Tate’s Bake Shop.
Despite the homey air it was meticulously maintained storefronts, teak benches, colorful planters and high end retailers that ooze the feeling of big money.
East Hampton
Historical Sag Harbor along the same named bay.
A beacon in the night! And I lucked out a second and third time: 2) they had fat free, no sugar added 3) in banana.
Wednesday, October 7th, 2009
As a boy in the 1860s-1870s Theodore Roosevelt’s active family spent their summers in the Oyster Bay area. In 1880, at 22, he bought land here and built a house in which he died in 1919.
The technological advancement of the telephone allowed Ssgamore Hill to become the first ‘Summer White House’ from 1902-1909 as the Roosevelts escaped DC’s oppressive heat.
TR’s high moral purpose and enthusiasm for life were instilled in his family; Sagamore Hill provided an outlet for it.
Not since visiting Ronald Reagan’s Rancho del Cielo (not open to the public) has such a permeation been felt trying to imagine the great man striding about this amazing home.
In 1938 Theodore Roosevelt Jr. built a Georgian home nearby and now it houses a museum with some fascinating artifacts including TR’s Rough Riders uniform and the top hat from President McKinley’s inauguration.
On a hill at the southern end of Oyster Bay our 26th President lies in peace.
Today’s age doesn’t know the vast wealth of turn of the century industrialists and bankers. Rockefellers, JP Morgans and Carnegies. It helped that they had no income tax! The Vanderbilt Estate was built in 1910 and features a 24 room Spanish Revival mansion, boathouse, marine museum, in-ground pool and views of Northport Bay.
Side by side glories of aluminum and glass. American Drive-In was on my list but Marshall’s Ice Cream Bar was a pleasant surprise.
In congested Valley Stream Itgen’s is a step back to the days of luncheonettes.
Thursday, October 8th, 2009
Returned the rental car and back into New York City.
Gramercy Tavern
Restaurateur: Danny Meyer
Gourmet Top 50: #34
Restaurant Magazine: Top Restaurants in the World- #15
New York Times: 3/4 Stars
Michelin: 1/3 Star
James Beard Awards: Outstanding Restaurant
Zagat: Most Popular
Halibut
Pole Beans, Mussels and Mizuna
Despite Theodore Roosevelt’s father’s wealth their family home was modest; proof of their family orientation. A larger house would have meant more servants.
Billy’s Bakery.
It was great to see Chelsea Market much busier than in the past.
Sniff, sniff. Isn’t it beautiful?
The gentle arch of Bleeker Street reveals Greenwich Village’s heart.
Luckily to keep this report shorter and help my health most Greenwich Village bakeries have already been visited....but there were some misses and new ones. Magnolia Bakery famous cupcakes were well picked over, another Amy’s Bread location, Faicco’s represented old school pork store and Murray’s is possibly the most acclaimed cheese store in the country.
Washington Square.
Veritas
Chef: Gregory Pugin
Lump Crab Mille-Feuille
Jicama, Tomato Confit, Avocado, Mango Vinaigrette
Roasted East Coast Halibut
Iberico Crust, Confit Potato, Fall Vegetables
Friday, October 9th, 2009
Anthony Bourdain is one of my top 2 food gods. Tony ended his 3 decades of climbing the culinary ladder as executive chef of Les Halles after astounding success in books and TV.
The patron saint of gourmet food markets- Dean & DeLuca.
A store that thrives for generations and retains the same charm is a treasure. The Bagel and Lox from Russ & Daughters featured the velvety richness of the salmon countered by the savory bagel.
Orchard St.
Chinatown, oh boy. Don’t worry, like Greenwich Village most bakeries have already been assaulted..however.
Earthy yet sweet Green Tea Cake, robust Fried Pork Bun, rich Coconut Tart and tropical Mango Sponge.
The Woolworth Building is one of my faves.
It was a repeat from the past trip of feeling the same emotions each block and step closer. Elevated heart rate, flushed sensation, growing anguish, sadness.
per se
Chef: Thomas Keller
New York Times: 4/4 Stars
Michelin: 3/3 Stars
Restaurant Magazine: Top Restaurants in the World: #9
Zagat: Highest score 3 consecutive years
Mobil: 5 Stars
Thomas Keller’s The French Laundry in Napa Valley’s Yountville has long been enshrined as one of the finest restaurants in the world since it opened in 1994. So it was with surprise and anticipation when he announced plans for per se at Ten Columbus Circle. How could the preacher of impeccable product sourcing do in the big city? And meet the benchmark set by The French Laundry?
Approach the blue door and be humbly surprised when the glass to the right silently slides open.
Enter a discrete and elegant area where a somber wall blocks the rest of the restaurant heightening a sense of curiosity. Turning past the wall reveals the most tasteful dining rooms.
The view from my table- Central Park to the left and Columbus Circle directly below.
Salmon Comet (salmon tartar with sweet red onion crème fraiche) & Gruyere Puffs
Tasting of Butternut Squash Soup
Herb Roasted Fillet of Columbia River Sturgeon
Crispy Spatzle, Slow Roasted Young Beets and Dandelion Greens with Horseradish-Infused Kendall Farms’ Crème Fraiche
A sweet ending.
Every bite, every course was excellent. Service by the 3 member waitstaff was attentive without being intrusive.
Had a bit of a debate. In the same building as per se was Masa, another Gourmet Top 50 and 3 star Michelin. I had already eaten quite a bit. But how often would I be that close to a top restaurant? Maybe I could get some greens to round out all the protein and carbs throughout the day.
Masa
Chef: Masa Takayama
Gourmet Top 50: #7
New York Times: 4/4 Stars
Michelin: 3/3 Stars
Wasabicress & Chikuwa with Wasabi Dressing
Most people probably don’t know the wasabi at sushi restaurants is imitation. The real stuff, a root that is part of the horseradish family, is expensive and sourced from Japan. I had no doubt a restaurant of this caliber used the real stuff. First bite the crunch of the peppery greens contrasting and matching the creamy dressing was relished. Then the second bite I thought the inside of my head was on fire. Maybe I got a bad chopstick grab of wasabi. Third bite my sinuses cleared with a biting fire, eyes watered and reflexably my head dropped as I pinched the bridge of my nose waiting for the anguish to subside. Looking up I saw the waitress looking at me with concern, "Are you OK?". "I'm done."
How do you get to Carnegie Hall? Practice, practice, practice.
Sorry.
What good luck that during the tour the New York Pops was practicing and we got to sit and be spellbound by the artistry for 20 minutes.
Two hours in the Museum of Modern Art was an plunge into culture.
An artpiece itself MoMA houses paintings, sculptures, photography, architecture and industrial design.
21 Club
“New York institution”. Passing the excess of wrought iron the doorman motions you into a dim world of old school. Dark wood paneling, wall sconces with little lampshades, mahogany leather wingback chairs and ornate Victorian carpeting.
Asparagus Terrine
Frisée, Beet Emulsion, Pickled Carrots
Organic Grilled Chicken Breast
Peach Glazed, Cheddar Cheese Hominy, English Peas, Smoked Ham Jus
Lemon Chiffon “Pie”, Graham Crust, Strawberry Coulis
The quick with gab bathroom attendant said I looked 18 then that I was lying I was just shy of 39. Don’t they want to get tips?
What a wonderful night to stroll around Rockefeller Center and take in the lights.
Saturday, October 10th, 2009
The fitness center didn’t open until 7 on weekends so up at the usual 4AM was relegated to an outside run. Camera and money ready for possible bakery stops.
Bagels at the first two and almost the third until I noticed a pan of corn muffins just out of the oven. Good call!
DB Bistro Moderne
Chef: Daniel Boulud
Slow Poached
Baby Spinach, Smoked Bacon, Whole Grain Toast
Astoundingly creamy I had to interrupt my reading to confirm I wasn’t eating melted cheese.
The excitement heightened to meet up with Rodolfo, Monika, Rachel and Julia; who I fondly refer to as The Family. They arrived at 2:30AM after a long and delayed day of traveling from their home in Southern California.
The young ladies were anxious to get to Hoboken, New Jersey to check out Carlo’s Bake Shop. So we boarded the PATH train crossing under the Hudson and soon were heading up Washington Avenue in the city known by On the Waterfront and Sinatra.
Founded in 1910 it is featured on TLC’s Cake Boss. Their excitement was well appreciated.
The crowd inside showed the popularity of the reality show. My choice was an item first enjoyed in the Italian Belmont neighborhood of The Bronx.
A quick stroll to Stevens Park for a view of Lower Manhattan’s skyline.
The PATH train brought us back to 23rd Street with The Family heading to Times Square to get show tickets and me to Union Square for lunch.
Union Square Café
Restaurateur: Danny Meyer
New York Times: 3 Stars
James Beard Awards
Zagat: Most Popular
Good luck to be able to visit the Union Square Greenmarket again, anticipation fueled by having good memories of it from 2005. It was a MOB scene. Behaved with only two bakery stops for an Apple Muffin and Cherry Pie.
Back to Times Square to meet up with The Family.
High Line resides on elevated train tracks used from 1930 to 1980.
A valiant job has been executed introducing indigenous landscaping and benches that roll on the rails.
With my girls in the Meatpacking District.
Sunday, October 11th, 2009
This morning’s run crossed Central Park (really dark at 5AM) to the Upper West Side. Papaya Juice recharge at Gray’s and a pose in front of the Ed Sullivan Theater. I religiously watched Late Night from 1982 to the early 90s in college. Now it seems Dave has some character problems...
On the 1st ferry of the day to visit Lady Liberty.
This great symbol of America was worth another visit to stare in amazement trying to assimilate all that she represents.
Then over to Ellis Island.
In my humble opinion the Brooklyn Bridge is both an engineering marvel AND a work of art.
Lunch overlooking Times Square and some great dialogue.
We ambled along a street fair on 8th.
Parting is such sweet sorrow. The Family headed to Broadway to see Mary Poppins and I to another dining destination. We all left in the morning.
Gotham Bar & Grill
Chef: Alfred Portale
New York Times: 3/4 Stars
Michelin: 1/3 Star
James Beard Awards: Best Chef
Black Bass Ceviche
Honeydew Melon, Hearts of Palm, Grapefruit and Radish Jalapeno Broth
Seafood Salad
Scallops, Squid, Japanese Octopus, Lobster and Avocado Lemon Vinaigrette
The Seafood Salad was the winner here. What an amazing amalgamation of tastes and textures. Succulent octopus, crunchy greens, rich lobster, bright dressing, firm scallops, creamy avocado.
Monday, October 12th, 2009
Dreams of returning to Norma’s for breakfast were fulfilled on this last morning. Let us review the previous visit of one of the best things I’ve ever eaten.
Waz-za
Waffle with mango, papaya, blueberries and banana in the batter topped with bananas, a Hollandaise-like sauce of those same fruits and finally crowned with blueberries.
The anticipation to chow climbed while climbing the stairs into the contemporary space.
The $15-$1000 dollar menu has such decadence as Foie Gras French Toast, Mango-Papaya Brown Butter Cinnamon Crêpes and PB&C Waffle ‘Wich; but I kept it healthier.
At $26 this is no usual breakfast. But then this is no usual creation.
Egg White Frittata of Shrimp
With Oven-roasted Roma Tomato and Spinach
For those inquiring minds check out the food report from September 2005 a bit down on this link:
http://adventuresofafoodie.blogspot.com/2005_09_01_archive.html