4 States
8 Days
3,759 Miles
19 Restaurants
15 Bakeries
5 Ice cream shops
2 Candy shops
1 Juice place
Before & After
Friday, May 27th, 2016
The 14th time this year in my beloved Chicago (the greatest-city-in-the-world) with some free time was an opportunity to work on the Michelin rated restaurant list. I am currently at 16 of the 22 starred restaurants. Lunch at a Bib Gourmand rated restaurant on Devon Avenue puts that category at 49 out of 55.
Did a little shopping before heading to O’Hare and rumor has it another pair of shoes was obtained.
8PM flight from ORD to PDX.
Saturday, May 28th, 2016
Portland was the only one of the top 50 U.S. cities I hadn’t been to. I know. What a loser. I never get to go anywhere.
It has a pleasant enough downtown with tree shaded streets and architecturally interesting buildings.
Though in many areas you had to peer through the homeless and dirty areas to see it.
Breakfast was at one of the two counters at Fuller's Coffee Shop, opened in 1947.
I went with their Famous Omelet stuffed with onion, tomato, ham, cheese and mushrooms.
Nob Hill is a strip of tree shaded boutiques just NW of downtown.
Voodoo Donuts’ line was only a half hour.
Examined the spinning display, “What should I get?”
Sampled the Tangfastic, Triple Chocolate Penetration and Memphis Mafia.
The Skidmore Fountain was dedicated in 1888.
Out of the hundreds of bookstores I’ve explored, Powell's Books could be the best.
It occupies a city block with split levels containing 68,000 square feet and 4,000,0000 books.
Ira Keller Fountain opened in 1970 and hold 75,000 gallons.
It has been a quest to visit the Portland Farmers Market for a dozen years. I know. What a loser. I never get to go anywhere.
It did not disappoint.
It was a beautiful morning to wander around appreciating the vendors proudly hawking their wares.
The USS Blueback served from 1957 to 1990.
Prior to the tour I got to talking to the guide and after he learned I’ve visited about every naval vessel across the country he invited me to stay after the tour for a closer look. Cool!
Acclaimed Pok Pok looks like a collection of buildings and different levels…because it is.
Kai Yaang
Charcoal roasted, air-cooled chicken stuffed with lemongrass, garlic, pepper and cilantro
Papaya Pok Pok
Green papaya salad with tomatoes, long beans, Thai chili, lime juice, tamarind, fish sauce, garlic, palm sugar, dried shrimp and peanuts
Sticky Rice
Crossed the street to Salt & Straw and sampled Olive Oil and then Dill Pickle ice cream, ultimately choosing delightful Strawberry.
Situated on an extinct volcano, Mt. Tabor Park provides views of the Portland skyline to the west.
Headed east out of Portland to Troutdale near the Columbia River.
Continued to follow the scenic Columbia River.
Straddling islands in the Columbia River, the Bonneville Lock and Dam was completed in 1938.
The complex includes a powerhouse, visitor’s center, fish ladder and the dam.
Mount Hood
From Hood River continued south and soon crossed my own path from years back in Madras and Bend. Continuing east was new territory to ‘fill in the map’.
Sunday, May 29th, 2016
From centrally located Hines headed east.
This is America.
Took a quick swing through Idaho,
before rounding back to Oregon in a southwest direction.
Logistics and ‘filling in the map’ prompted navigating this gravel road at a cautious speed for over an hour.
This route prompted some solitude and seeing beautiful countryside.
Back on pavement.
This is the kind of restaurant that demands a visit.
And you have to order the Meatloaf. I actually ate an entire slab. And half of the mashed potatoes. Oink.
Pointed the rental south, finished a Spenser novel audio book and started Jon Meacham’s well researched and flattering biography of George H.W. Bush. The views never diminished in awe.
After hundreds of thousands of miles of seeing such immense beauty it is frustrating trying to absorb it all and wish I could convey to everyone what I’ve seen.
How great is America? How can that be comprehended?
Pivoted north in Klamath Falls.
Crater Lake National Park is our oldest national park.
Crater Lake is the deepest lake in the United States.
This shot indicates how much snow they get at altitude. It was 80 degrees that day.
At the northwest end of the alpine lake I took in this serene vista....
....then turned around to gaze upon the sun setting over a snowscape.
Monday, May 30th, 2016
Detroit Dam and Lake
In Salem for the traditional picture in front of the Capitol.
And another pic for good measure.
Salem’s downtown is so marvelous!
It felt like having one foot back in time and one in the present.
This shot from the street won’t do justice to the Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum.
So here is the aerial view of the complex:
The main aircraft building houses the Spruce Goose developed by eccentric billionaire Howard Hughes.
Built from 1942 to 1947 at a cost of $23 million; it is built with a fuselage made of rice paper, wood putty and shellac and frame of laminated birth.
It is difficult to capture how massive the 340 foot wings are. Men could walk around inside of them.
The museum houses commercial, recreational and military aircraft.
Another building houses Space Flight.
How cool is this?! A Titan I rocket!
The processing power of the Galaxy S7 phone in my pocket is millions more than that 1960s control room.
The SR-71, better known as the Blackbird, was a supersonic, reconnaissance aircraft capable of Mach 3 and taking pictures of 100,000 square miles per hour. Imagine how much more I could see flying at thirty six miles per minute!
Loved Corvallis’ downtown!
Sidewalks shaded by mature trees and canopies are anchored by tidy landscaping.
And they have a bakery!
Fifth Street Public Market is the highlight of Eugene’s downtown.
The complex encompasses several buildings and a courtyard.
Grants Pass
The redwoods of northern California instill a spiritual sense.
Crescent City, California.
Tuesday, May 31st, 2016
Swung in Vita Cucina for a deliciously moist Morning Glory Muffin.
Back on the 101 heading north to experience the Oregon Coast.
It was a 10 minute trail run to see....
....Thomas Creek Bridge, the highest bridge in Oregon.
Then a tad further for this view. It was serenity to stand among the ferns listening to the waves rolling in, a slight breeze ruffling the air.
While in Bandon strolled the waterfront, got sweets at Cranberry Sweets and scored Peanut Butter Fudge at Big Wheel General Store.
Coos Bay
Hmmm...let’s go with the Apple Fritter. It's basically like eating an apple.
Enter Florence’s Old Town underneath the 101 by the harbor.
Got some fat free Blackberry Ice Cream and soaked up the sunshine and pleasant town.
Continued north. What a gorgeous day with better views.
Sea Lion Caves
Newport- Bayfront District
Depoe Bay has the world’s smallest harbor.
Lincoln City
A quick jaunt off of highway 101, Cannon Beach is a pleasant burg with affluent vacation homes,
a long stretch of attractive shops and restaurants and
is known for Haystack Rock.
Seaside evokes a bygone era of seaside beach towns. (See what I did there?)
Wednesday, June 1st, 2016
The seaside accommodations allowed for a long run down the promenade.
At the northern boundary of Oregon, highway 101 curves inland following the Columbia River revealing Astoria’s rugged downtown.
Columbian Café is a historic building and restaurant now run by tattoo blanketed and pierced chefs.
Who prepared one of the best breakfasts I’ve had- Salmon Scramble, Sea Beans, Pesto, Potato.
Climbing the hills above the town to scale Astoria Column.
Astoria Column was built in 1926 by Vincent Astor of the railroad family dynasty.
A 525 foot long frize spirals upwards depicting 14 historical Oregon milestones.
The 164 steps spiral towards a
view of the Columbia River and Astoria to the north and
mountain panoramas to the south.
Bridge crossing the Columbia into Washington. Bridges are so cool!
Off the beaten path, Long Beach features a boardwalk and the world’s longest beach.
Some bakery and Frozen Yogurt.
The coast of Washington is much more desolate.
Aberdeen
An isolated beach along the Olympic peninsula.
After crossing the short bridge onto Bainbridge Island I saw a line of cars and then looked at my odometer. Since it was 5PM it was folks returning from Seattle via the ferries. That line of cars was 7 miles long.
Bainbridge proved to be an inviting little strip of shops.
Streamliner Diner
Pan Seared Scallops, Green Pea Puree, Crisp Pancetta, Gremolata
Thursday, June 2nd, 2016
Downtown Olympia has the vibe of college/government/small town.
The Spar Café opened in 1935. Just imagine the scene in here decades ago.
Mon Ami Omelet
Spinach, red onion, tomato, herb cream cheese & avocado
It’s official. Have now been to every state Capitol.
A loop through the countryside. This is America.
Downtown Tacoma is perched above the southern point of Puget Sound.
Union Station operated from 1911 to 1984.
hello, cupcakes. That is both what this shop is called and what I said upon seeing this.
Past trips to Seattle have netted visiting all the attractions, seeing the sites, strolling the neighborhoods, 21 restaurants and 29 bakeries/ice cream shops. But it’s always bothered me I’ve missed a highly acclaimed deli.
After a 31 year career as an engineer for Boeing, Armandino Batali pursued his dream to open a shop dedicated to the art of curing meats. That is Salumi to the right with the line.
Known to always have that line I was grateful it was only a half hour.
Finnochiona Salami, Leonetta’s Meatball, Porchetta
Love it!
The 38 story Smith Tower is Seattle's first skyscraper. This is the third attempt to visit its observation floor…and it was closed for renovations.
Took a quick spin through the Pioneer Square neighborhood dodging homeless people while enjoying the weather and this original settlement dating to 1852.
Seattle has certainly gotten dirty and the homeless population rivals the working population.
Union Station. Wow! All the times walking past this structure while going to the International District and I never stopped inside?! And I love old train stations!
Back to the rental and headed north for a couple of hours.
Birch Bay is just miles from the Canadian border.
Several years ago I read an article in Bon Appetit about an inn on the far side of a tiny island in the north end of Puget Sound. They have an accomplished chef who was combing the island, beaches and waters to find anything edible to use in culinary creations. It instilled a need to dine there as part of the efforts to experience the best restaurants around the globe.
Drive to a small peninsula in NW Washington and board a ferry to Lummi Island.
This road circles the island with a population of 816.
Facing the Orcas Island in Puget Sound,
The Willows Inn is an unassuming culinary destination.
The chefs work gardens on the property and around the island. Note the smoker next to this garden.
Having one of these pricey, yet modest rooms, helps assure getting dinner reservations. My room had a private entrance.
The restaurant consists of several attractive spaces. The beautifully appointed living room,
dining room, bar
and view into the kitchen
The first courses were presented on the deck.
Kale Leaves with black truffles
Crispy Crepe and golden char roe
Roasted Sunflower Root with sweet onion puree
The remaining courses were served inside.
Green Rhubarb
Native Oysters in a juice of watercress
Clams with wasabi
Mackerel with lettuce root
Turnip Stems with caramelized squid
Wild Herbs and crispy mustard leaves
Spot Prawns
Salmonberries with nootka roses
Smoked Sockeye Salmon
Seared Skirt of Razor Clam
Halibut and lovage
Wheat Bread with pan drippings
Roasted Lamb with radish jam and crushed herbs
Toasted Birch Branches
Grilled Strawberries and fresh chamomile
Pine Ice Cream with candied pine cone
Pumpkin Seed Fudge
21 courses, 3 hours, $240 with 8.5% tax and $50 tip.
Friday, June 3rd, 2016
Not a bad view for the morning run.
Back on mainland and feeling like Starvin’ Marvin ordered up this Indian fry bread sandwich. No, I didn't eat it all. Gadzooks.
Snohomish’s historic downtown is ever so appealing with vestiges into the past.
Marionberry Pie at Snohomish Pie Company.
Best bakery of the trip- Bread Pudding Muffin from Snohomish Bakery at First & Union. Genius.
Heading into the Cascades.
This is America.
Once again crossing my path in the Teutonic themed Leavenworth. Don’t worry; I’ve already been to all of their bakeries.
Last time in Peshastin Prey's Fruit Barn and Smallwood's Harvest were closed. Was able to enjoy them this time.
Followed the twisting mountain roads south enjoying the beauty while listening to more audio books. In Cle Elum visited the Cle Elum Bakery debating how you pronounce Cle Elum.
A rare case of being ahead of schedule allowed venturing back into Seattle to cross a couple eateries off the list. Have walked and drove past Anthony's Pier 66 many times.
Was seated on the second level deck and enjoyed this Copper River King Salmon while enjoying the view of the skyline and Mt. Rainier.
Pike Place Market is always worth seeing again and again.
At Gelatiamo went with Rice and Coconut. The rice didn’t taste like that and the Coconut was gelato perfection.
The Marriott in Bellevue was much cheaper than The Willows Inn. And I want to duplicate their bathroom.
Saturday, June 4th, 2016
That Marriott had a well equipped weight room. Then a ran revealed Bellevue to be polished with gleaming skyscrapers, immaculate landscaping and high end shops.
Chace's Pancake Corral has been rounding up families since 1958.
Corralled all their pancake offerings with the Joe Adams Assortment- Potato, Buttermilk, Buckwheat and Strawberry. No, I didn't eat it all. Gadzooks.
Back in Tacoma had to see the 1927 Bob's Java Jive mimetic architecture.
LeMay America's Car Museum
Walking the 4 floors and 6 ramps connecting them I emotionally reflected on all the car museums I’ve been to around the world. It is so touching to have all those cars preserved and presented.
The first floor gallery was showcasing one of the best marques- BMW.
Astute Travelogue readers know in the Germany posting it was disclosed I think the BMW 507 is one of the most beautiful bodies every styled.
Here are my favorites from this museum:
1939 327/8, 2016 BMW M4 GTS
1930 Dusenberg Model J Roadster, 1930 Packard 740
1931 Auburn Boattail Speedster, Flintstone’s Car
Southern Kitchen was on my list before it was featured on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives.
Travel Boy Travel Tip #14: Always go with Collard Greens and Candied Yams. Rounding out the foursome are Mac ‘n Cheese and Red Beans.
Back in downtown Tacoma and keeping with the southern theme, at Original House of Donuts it was a Red Velvet. It wasn’t good. It was stupendous.
Back into being immersed in beauty.
Mount Rainier.
He just gets SO excited.
That water was so clear.
In 1980 I was in 5th grade when Mount Saint Helens erupted.
At 8:32AM on May 18th this north side collapsed. It initiated a landslide that created hurricane force winds that destroyed 230 square miles of forest in three minutes.
For 9 hours the eruption rained ash and debris over 3 states. This before and after shows how the north side collapsed.
Sunday, June 5th, 2016
1AM flight out of PDX, arrive at ORD at 6:30AM. Another epic journey of seeing the greatest-country-in-the-world-in-the-history-of-the-world.