Palm Springs to PCH to Vegas
Even with 8 trips to California, The Map has too many blank spots.
2 States
6 Days
1,296 Miles
28 Hours & 33 minutes driving time
16 Restaurants
9 Bakeries
2 Ice Cream Shops
3 Drink places
The before and after reflects only a dent has been made in those blank spots; two days at the girlfriend’s Palm Springs home, a jaunt up PCH, crossing south central Cali and toss in Vegas.
Wednesday, December 13th, 2017
MKE to LAS to ONT
Thursday, December 14th, 2017
Not a bad view for the morning run...
Headed to La Quinta for breakfast at Louise’s Pantry before running errands.
I (heart) dates. Way back in 2010 I sampled enough at Shields Date Gardens to skip a meal.
Back to the house to set-up the patio.
As a late-ish birthday present she brought me to Aqua Caliente Resort and Spa for a couple’s massage. Reasonably sure the 5 foot masseuse was trying to get me to scream in pain.
We then headed to Palm Springs for Village Fest. The last time I was on Palm Canyon Drive it was like 200 degrees. Tonight it was a more tolerable 76.
Every Thursday night a long stretch Palm Canyon is closed off for vendors. It is a wonderful community event.
Nowhere, nowhere looks like Palm Springs.
Friday, December 15th, 2017
Made an omelette for The Blonde.
She snuck this first pic. Creeper. But these accommodations didn’t have a weight room (this will be reflected in the TripAdvisor review) so I had to make do with tension bands. And outside, since it was 20 degrees at home.
Out and about. Her favorite view.
I (heart) poke. My wonderful creation (bottom) has: Ahi tuna, salmon, coconut meat, cucumber, tomato, red cabbage, carrot, kelp, crispy garlic, avocado, crisp onion and toasted sesame.
After lunch ran some errands at the never-ending strip malls all seemingly framed by mountains.
In a bland part of Indio in a featureless business park is TKB Bakery & Café.
Which has the distinction of being one of the top 5 Yelp rated restaurants for 3 years.
They are all about sandwiches. We shared a The Trump (no, not named after the President). Turkey, salami, bacon, pepper jack cheese, avocado, mayonnaise, mustard, lettuce, tomato, onion, jalapeño, potato chips, and chipotle on a jalapeño focaccia roll
Headed south to the Hispanic heavy Coachella…that means panaderias!
Continuing south it got less affluent.
Oasis Date Gardens has been around since 1912. And it looks it.
Date Shake with Cactus!
Continued the trend of driving south as the population density thinned.
The Salton Sea was formed by Colorado River swelling in the early 1900s and poorly designed canals.
In the 1950s it was a major tourist destination dubbed the “Salton Riviera” and ringed with resorts, yacht clubs, piers and vacation homes. Until the unnatural presence of no drainage outlet, little rain and raising salt levels killed all the fish whose rotting carcasses littered the shores.
The shoreline towns have all been abandoned for decades.
As I walked to the water’s edge to peer in,
she declared, “I’ll just stay here”. Since the “beach” is a layers of crushed fish bones. The closer you get to the water the more mushy it becomes.
Driving around Bombay Beach it was eerie with its post-apocalyptic aura and not seeing a single citizen.
Saturday, December 16th, 2017
Not a bad view for the morning run.
On the road to make the 3 hour drive NW to Simi Valley.
Stopping in Azusa for an apple fritter. Since it’s basically like eating fruit.
Fourth time at the Ronald Reagan Presidential Library.
Perched on a hillside in Simi Valley, this impressive complex houses the museum, Presidential papers and is the final resting place of Ronald and Nancy Reagan.
1996 (left) & 2000 (right) on a trip for the honor of visiting his not open to the public Rancho Del Cielo in the mountains north of Santa Barbara.
And then 2006 (left) for the new Air Force Pavilion which has my name on the founder’s wall & 2017 (right).
The exhibits trace his upbringing in small town Illinois, local radio announcer, success as an actor, two terms as Governor and two terms as The Greatest President.
The exhibits have been revamped over the years with many of the same items. I liked the initial set-up better.
This is the brand new suit he was wearing on March 30th, 1981 that was cut off of him. And the x-ray showing the bullet sitting next to his heart.
An exact replica of the Oval Office.
His handwritten letter announcing Alzheimer’s.
Tail number 27000 was put into service in 1972 for President Nixon and was retired in 1990 and last used by President Bush (41).
One of the helicopters that served as Marine One is in the pavilion. “Give me sass!”
The outside terraces include a piece of the Berlin Wall.
And great views. To our left you could see the Ventura fires.
He rescued the economy, restored the American Spirit and gave liberty to many around the world.
Those Ventura fires shifted our planned PCH route to the east up I-5.
And then west on 166. The forest fire’s smoke hung a haze over the vast landscape.
In San Luis Obispo for dinner.
At Blue Sky Café.
He had halibut and she the salmon.
Sunday, December 17th, 2017
Bakery!
Back to the tree lined downtown of San Luis Obispo
The city started at Mission Plaza. And yes, she is wearing capris, flip flop...and a winter jacket.
The germophobe walked the entire length of Bubblegum Alley. While she said, “Ew. I’ll wait here.”
Continuing north on 101 looking to the left was a constant Kodak moment.
Checked out the Cal Poly campus to see where fellow travel afficiendo Julia goes.
Tucked in a valley off the PCH, Cambria is houses turned art galleries circling an active downtown.
Breakfast and Linn’s.
William Randolph Hearst turned owning the San Francisco Examiner into a media empire of newspapers that controlled the bias of the news. (Things haven’t changed.) He built and lived in La Cuesta Encantada from 1919 to his death in 1947. You can see it left of center.
It’s now called Hearst Castle and is part of the California State Park system.
Guests would have seen zebras, bison and elk on the 15 minute serpentine drive up.
In the 1920s through 1940s this 250,000 acre complex was a prized invite for movie stars and politicians.
The famed Neptune pool is undergoing a renovation.
The grounds include tennis courts, a zoo, pools, movie theatre and airfield.
Some guests could stay at cottages ranging from 3,000 to 5,000 square feet.
With views of the Pacific.
The main castle has 56 bedrooms and 61 bathrooms.
Guests mingled in the Assembly Room.
And then dined.
Post diner relaxed in the Morning Room.
And played billiards or watched a movie. Likely staring someone in attendance.
Circling the Castle we marveled that we had only seen a smidgen of this remarkable creation.
The indoor Roman Pool. Wowzas.
Back to Cambria to dine outside at the charming Easy As Pie Café.
Heading east on a one and a half car wide country lane, every hairpin turn delighted with a new site.
Along the way we stopped at a fruit stand. While Aimee chatted up the lady I was narrow-mindedly focused on getting a fresh Olallieberry Pie. Which we shared on a bench overlooking a bubbling creek.
On September 30, 1955 James Dean was traveling in this same direction when in his Porsche Speedster was struck by an oncoming motorist in this intersection. The rising star was 24 years old.
Hanford’s town square is anchored by charm.
And nearby is the 8 decade delight, Superior Dairy. Just imagine all the generations of elbows wearing that counter away!
Their Banana Split has 3 scoops of ice cream. We decided it was a misprint and should be 3 pints.
Monday, December 18th, 2017
Just imagine the interior! Bakersfield is the only town I hadn't been to in the top 50 largest cities in the USA.
Craggy exterior, soft moist interior, hint of lemon.
Back on the road heading east the vistas were amazing. What a great country!
She sleeps. I drive.
Always a delight to pass through a Route 66 town.
In an aging strip mall is a top rated Mexican restaurant.
Calico sprouted up in 1881 after a silver strike.
In 12 years $20 million of silver was mined from 'dem 'der hills.
Walter Knott, of Berry Farms, bought this area in the 1950s and restored and reconstructed the buildings.
It was a disappointment. Instead of finding a living history museum as I've found across the west this was a series of shops. So you spend $16 to get in for them to want you to spend more.
More hours of driving. More head swiveling. She...yeah...slept.
We’ve both been to Vegas many times. My Main Squeeze like 15 to 20 times.
720 square foot suite in the $1.8 billion dollar, AAA Five Diamond The Palazzo. Named the largest hotel in the world by Guinness, it also has more square footage than The Pentagon.
But these stats are not important to Babycakes who just appreciates fine lodging.
The efforts to eat at the best restaurants in the world have included all of the Michelin starred restaurants in Chicago, most Michelin winners in NYC and most of the Gourmet Top 50. Past trips to Vegas have garnered Paul Bartolotta’s Ristorante di Mare, Todd English’s Olives, Bobby Flay’s Mesa Grill, Thomas Keller’s Bouchon and Bradley Ogden.
Joel Robuchon
30 Michelin stars cumulatively
Five stars Forbes Travel
Chef of the Century
AAA Five Diamond
Aimee looks so elegant!
They offer 2, 3, 4, 5 and 14 ($445!) course meals. She choose 2, I did 4. Oink.
Amuse bouche- Quinoa fritter.
Bread, all made in-house and then Brittany butter service.
Amuse bouche- Daikon and caviar.
Maine lobster in thin sliced daikon with black truffle coulis
Eyes shot closed as jolts of new flavors surged.
Millefeuille of winter vegetables and foie gras in thin pastry layers, truffle infused poultry bouillon
Oh my. So good.
My entrée: Pan fried sea bass with five spices
Her entrée: Grilled beef ribeye with crispy ravioli
My dessert: Bubble sugar sphere filled with a blueberry yogurt sorbet, candied lemon and violet cream
Really? Stellar.
Her dessert: Caramelized banana and passion fruit cream, coconut foam
One of each! Please!
After a 2 hour meal we were back in the room by 8. And since we’re old, me more so, we wanted to go to bed. But I’m like, “Vegas baby!”
We made it almost to 10PM.
Tuesday, December 19th, 2017
Get a real kick out of the old Vegas.
On an unassuming street in an unassuming building is a top rated breakfast spot.
Truffled Egg Sandwich & Huevos Motulenos
Crème brulee donut. Meh.
El Cortez is one of the few remaining original hotels. What a visual delight!
After finding out Miss "I Love Vegas!" had never been downtown we headed to Fremont.
It sure has changed a lot over the years. It used to give you a feel of that old era. Now it is like modern Vegas meets Bourbon Street.
Everytime I see the cowboy I think of the car chase scene from Diamonds are Forever.
The Neon Museum is a boneyard for those dazzling signs of yesteryear.
The guided tours correlate the history of Vegas, use of signs, restoration efforts and nostalgia.
We found them to be a little too militant and an hour tour too long.
I always encourage folks to get into the real Vegas. Along this boulevard well NW of The Strip is M&M Soul Food.
I ordered:
Yams: right balance of sweetness
Collard Greens: among the best I've had
Meatloaf: passable (mine is better)
She ordered:
Cornbread stuffing: one of the best things I've eaten this year
Red Beans and Rice: as they should be
Fried Chicken: perfectly seasoned batter
Spin through Chinatown..yes, there was bakery.
Quick walk on the southern end of The Strip before catching a flight that arrived home at 2AM.