15 Days
2 Countries
3 States
12 Towns
29 Restaurants
27 Bakeries
8 Coffee shops
7 Ice cream shops
5 Chocolate shops
Wildlife spotted: Moose, bear, caribou, reindeer, salmon, starfish, sea cucumbers, sea urchins, bald eagles, sea otters, whales
Prologue
The source of this trip was explained with the Minnesota Travelogue. Of to my 49th state to our 49th state.
Due to the length of this epic journey and mind-spinning amount of things experienced consider this Travelogue an abridged version. I kept it as concise as possible while trying to give respect to the greatness of all the amazing experiences.
Some insight into Alaska will give a better context to this trip.
Originally part of Russia Alaska was bought for $ 7,200,000 in 1867. Russia was watching Canada and the United States expand westward and decided to make some money rather than risk a potential land grab. They thought they ripped the U.S. off. We thought we got a deal at 2 cents an acre.
A few decades later gold was discovered.
In a few more decades oil was found.
Our 49th state is 1/5th the size of the lower 48 and is larger than Texas, California and Montana combined. It has 3,000 rivers; 3,000,000 lakes; 33,000 miles of coastline; 100,000 glaciers and 39 mountain ranges.
PART ONE: INTERIOR BY LAND
Sunday, July 19th, 2009
Milwaukee to Minneapolis to Seattle to Fairbanks. 13 hours total travel time. It was weird to go to bed at 10PM and it was still light out. Doesn’t get dark in summer. Strange. More strange is their 21 hours of darkness in winter.
Monday, July 20th, 2009
The morning run did double duty to explore downtown Fairbanks which proved to be small, desolate and somewhat bleak.
Stopping at Safeway to stock up on fruit my jaw literally dropped. $1.10/lb for bananas. $3.50/lb for pears and apples. Watermelons $9 each. Need a sack of oranges? Take out a second mortgage. I heard further north milk is $9 a gallon.
The Alaska Range Overlook is a ridge at the University of Alaska.
Driving north out of Fairbanks on the Elliott Highway and quickly delving into remoteness it was emotional to consider there were no roads to the west and no roads to the east. Nothing but expansive wilderness.
During the drive the pipeline could be spotted a few times.
The pavement ends after 76 miles and continues as the Dalton Highway for 414 miles to Prudhoe Bay. This rugged stretch is infamous for wrecking vehicles and lack of services.
Despite some classically appointed rooms reflective of the success of the gold rush era guess where I ate lunch?
The Riverboat Discovery is a 3 hour tour including a bush plane demo, Susan Butcher’s sled dogs, visiting a traditional native village and countless views.
Pioneer Park utilizes old log cabins for shops and food plus has playgrounds, museums, picnic grounds and a salmon bake.
They also have an Air Museum that is more like remnants from someone’s attic. Smells like one also.
Tuesday, July 21st, 2009
The McKinley Explorer takes 4 hours to travel from Fairbanks to Denali National Park. One can take a step back into time when train travel was the efficient method to cover great distances.
The wrap around windows exhibited a non-stop flow of magnificent landscape.
Arriving at the park and after checking in I grabbed one of the shuttles (cars are not allowed too far into the park) and then to the Savage River Trail.
The North Face trail running shoes tenaciously gripped the rock terrain as I navigated the undulating slopes while absorbing the tremendous views.
Imagine this National Park is the size of New Hampshire and its most famous resident is Mt. McKinley- the highest point on North America at 20,320 feet.
Wednesday, July 22nd, 2009
The first at the park (besides campers) breakfast was al fresco absorbing the clear air and views.
The destination was the Mt. Healy Overlook trail rated as ‘strenuous’ at 4 miles climbing 1700 feet with a round trip estimate of 3-4 hours. The peak of the trail is at the arrow:
The trail ascent was gradual at first then quickly became a series of steep and rocky switchbacks with each turn revealing seemingly endless vistas.
Moving above treeline I was cautious to measure each step as one loose rock would be disastrous as the path serpentined along the edge of sheer drop offs.
The wind was whipping at the top as the camera pivoted to capture the 360 degrees of thick forests and proud mountain ranges.
And it only took an hour and a half! 3-4?!
The train to Anchorage takes 8 hous. As an old movie buff I anxiously awaited a meal in the dining car imagining myself as a suave Cary Grant charming a young starlet. Instead I sat with a nice couple from western New York state.
Thursday, July 23rd, 2009
A population of 260,000 places Anchorage as Alaska’s largest city.
Breakfast was at the cheery Snow City Café.
What is unique about this plate? Reindeer sausage. (w/ Egg Beaters, fruit & wheat toast).
The compact downtown maintains a frontier feel.
What muffin aficionado can pass up a place called Muffin Man? This is their Blueberry Bran.
Renting a bike would be a great way to see the 12 mile Tony Knowles Coastal Trail. With a 3 hour minimum rental realizing any self respecting mountain biker can crank out 12 miles in no time the wheels where used to see sites further from downtown.
To the NW is Resolution Park and to the NE a salmon viewing platform.
A half hour ride south to Midtown there were a few food stops along the way.
The ultimate destination was Alaska Wild Berry Products. They have a 20 foot chocolate fountain and it turns out they frown upon those who strip down to their Underoos and dive in. Along the back are windows showcasing candy production.
On the way back Jerry’s Donuts and the 1964 classic Arctic Roadrunner.
On Good Friday in 1964 a 9.2 earthquake hit Alaska and among the devastation an entire neighborhood NW of Anchorage slid into Cook Inlet taking with it 75 homes and 4 lives. The remaining bluff houses Earthquake Park featuring displays on the science of earthquakes and what happened that day.
The Coastal Trail runs along the inlet with views of the city skyline.
Lunch was at the high-end Simon & Seafort’s Saloon & Restaurant. The dining room and view competed for my attention.
But once the Seafood Louie Salad arrived all focus was on the skillfully seasoned salmon, Dungeness crab and shrimp.
Alaska Aviation Heritage Museum not only does a respectful job showcasing the state’s important aviation industry...
...but gains more respect for restoring these planes.
Dinner at the high energy Glacier BrewHouse
Friday, July 24th, 2009
After a morning of meandering around downtown Anchorage for bakery and a steamer it was off to the airport to catch the coach to the cruise ship. The drive along the Kenai Peninsula took 2 hours with alternating between reading and taking in the views.
Seward’s benefit is having a deep sea port that does not freeze.
PART TWO: INSIDE PASSAGE BY SEA
Saturday, July 25th, 2009
Fearful 3 words for someone who can’t sit still and must be seeing and exploring- Day At Sea.
Work out, breakfast, Culinary Arts Center demo, fitness seminar, Culinary Arts Center demo, salmon bake, fitness seminar, read in library, dinner, comedian.
From 2PM to 5PM the ship moved along the coast to sail right up to the Hubbard Glacier. To give a scale of the size of it look for the Princess cruise ship:
Sunday, July 26th, 2009
Sitka transitioned from being the capitol of the Russian territory to the Alaskan territory to the state capitol until 1912.
One of the few reminders of this Russian heritage are the spires of St. Michael’s.
East of the small downtown Sitka National Historic Park preserves totem poles among acres of coniferous forest.
Two hours of kayaking was a magnificent mode to move along the dozens of islands while learning about wildlife.
It was so peaceful to glide along with the best company of the silence and serenity.
Spotted were bald eagles, sea urchins, sea cucumbers and hundreds of starfish. I snacked on seaweed.
Monday, July 27th, 2009
In the 1890s Skagway had a population of 10 at one homestead. In 1898 gold was discovered in the Klondike and that census exploded to 25,000. Today it has 868. Most of the downtown is owned by the National Parks Service which has conserved the historic buildings leasing them to t-shirt shops, jewelers and souvenir traps.
Wooden sidewalks and historic appropriate facades preserve the 1890s supplemented by some great museums.
A ½ hour walk north of town on a hillside lays the final resting place of many of those early fortune seekers, entrepreneurs and even villains.
Following the sound I found this waterfall.
As those gold prospectors flooded Skagway and headed 600 miles to the gold fields they first had a horrific journey over the mountains. The White Pass & Yukon Route was built under seemingly impossible conditions and today is a tourist attraction.
It showcases that formidable terrain which now becomes a scene of awe.
It crosses a few bridges, burrows through two tunnels and snakes along to the Yukon Territory of Canada.
Tuesday, July 28th, 2009
Juneau has the distinction of being the only state capitol with no roads going to it.
South Franklin Street is the origin of downtown and still the most active part.
Downtown was just plain colorful.
Tradition! Picture in front of the capitol. Emma did a suburb job on the tour.
Navigating the steep San Francisco-like streets on the edge of town I headed to some hiking. First was one trail that has one of the original flumes used for gold panning when the town was founded in 1880.
Next was the Mt. Roberts Trail. Most tourists take the $27 tram that leaves right from the cruise docks to the top of Mount Roberts. This trail weaves up the other side of the mountain with a constant steep climb over rocks and roots.
Arriving at the top there were views of the channel and alpine terrain.
The Blue Bus takes 25 minutes to get to Mendenhall Glacier.
Another hike rewarded with a stream packed with salmon and a bear and her cubs.
A little more ambling around town to admire the architecture and vibe.
As the ship sailed out the Gastineau Channel the fantastic weather required escaping the dining room for these views while enjoying Baked Basa and Mille-Feuille of Duck Foie Gras.
Wednesday, July 29th, 2009
Blantantly touristy. That was the immediate impression of Ketchikan. You have to delve deep and use some imagination to see the rich historic past of the narrow spit of land built on the salmon industry.
Creek Street was were the lonely sailors would return to ‘negotiate for affection’.
Thomas Basin provided a picture backdrop.
Thursday, July 30th, 2009
Oh boy, those words again- Day At Sea.
Work out, breakfast, shower, another breakfast, disembarkation talk, backstage tour, Culinary Arts Center demo, lunch, lecture on Alaska, pianist, work out, read, dinner.
On the way to another work out with British Columbia in the background.
PART THREE: VANCOUVER BY FOOT
Friday, July 31st, 2009
A 2002 ski trip to Whistler granted exploring Vancouver before and after hitting the slopes 80 miles to the north. It struck me as an enticing city and I always yearned to return. This disembarkation point for the cruise provided such a chance.
The timing was ideal to delve deeper into the host city for the 2010 Winter Olympics.
View of downtown from hotel.
Robson Street is the core of the downtown district and Robson Square is its heart.
Built in 1914 Waterfront Station both retains its neoclassical-style and is a transportation hub for not only trains but now buses and boats.
Gastown is the origin of Vancouver. Brick streets, wrought iron, globe streetlamps festoned with hanging baskets and deep red brick meld to create a timeless sensation.
Chinatown! That means deep culture, merchants proudly displaying their wares and….bakeries.
Black Bean Cake, Squash Cake and Pineapple Bun.
On the western edge of Chinatown T&T Supermarket has an abundance of produce and full line of Asian products to supplement the usual grocery items.
But their self-service food bar isn’t the usual salad bar. I had pig ears (flavorful & chewy), tendon (tender & delicious), fungus (suburb), pig stomach(luscious) and seaweed salad to round it out for super nutrition.
Gentrification has turned Yaletown into a pleasant mix of peaceful residential streets and trendy retail corridors where 25 foot wide elevated sidewalks show pedestrians are king.
To the left behind the buildings you can see BC Place Stadium. On the other side of the water to the right will be the athlete’s village.
A ½ hour bus ride across English Bay to West Vancouver to cross the 450 foot long Capilano Suspension Bridge.
On the other side of the 230 foot canyon are boardwalks to explore the rainforest.
And elevated suspension bridges to glide among the treetops 100 feet above the coastal forest floor.
Also in West Vancouver Lonsdale Quay is a waterside market.
There was cheesebread at COBS Bread, Blueberry Bran Muffin from Muffin Delight,Mincemeat Pie at El Dorado and goey cookie at Sweet Carrie’s.
Taking the SEABUS back across the Bay to walk the length of Granville Avenue to aborb the architecture of grand movie palaces and other once regal buildings.
While industry still remains active on Granville Island many warehouses have been transformed into art galleries, functioning sculpture metal shops and clothing boutiques.
Entering from underneath the behomouth bridge ivy tames the concrete starkness and this tactful landscaping continues everywhere.
Kids get there own section to learn arts and with playgrounds for energy outlets.
Festive in attitude it was a delight to wonder around.
The Granville Island Public Market was one of the best markets I’ve been to in the world.
Food? Duh. Who can pass up a place called a la mode? Or a bakery with tiers of carbs?
Sniffle. Isn’t this bagel display beautiful?
Saturday, August 1st, 2009
Let’s break down how this day unfolded. It wasn’t quite as planned- getting home at 4PM.
3AM: Got up.
4AM: Arrived at airport via taxi.
5:15AM: Made it through customs and security.
8AM: Arrive late (fog) at Seattle ran for 8:15 flight.
8:15AM: Flight canceled due to engine problem.
8:15AM to 10:45: Waited in line for 2 ½ hours to get rebooked on 2:15PM flight.
2:15PM: Delayed to 2:56PM.
3:00PM: Flight overbooked. No offer to rebook, I have to ask. Nothing until the next morning. I have to ask for lodging and meal vouchers. Thanks NWA.
4PM: Arrive at hotel exhausted planning on turning in really early. But why not make the most of being stuck in Seattle? I like the town and love Pike Place Market.
PART FOUR: UNPLANNED SEATTLE
The pleasurable waterfront piers' restaurants, museums & gift shops are teaming with tourists.
The Pike Place Market is in full swing on this glorious summer early evening.
Despite this being my 4th visit to the market the visuals and aura are still fascinating.
At the famed Pike Place Fish for ‘flying fish’ I enjoy some smoked salmon.
“Fig gelato?! I love figs!”
The maze of buildings has a delightful image around every turn.
The famous sign.
Moving inland the downtown retail core was in full swing but alas, my camera battery was dead. Seems I expected to be home by now.
Sunday, August 2nd, 2009
Up at 2:30AM. Seattle to Minneapolis to Milwaukee. Finally home!