3 States
9 Days
2 1/2 Days not driving
991 Miles
71 Hours 53 minutes driving time
50 Restaurants
48 Bakeries
11 Ice cream shops
4 Chocolate shops
2 Drink places
8 Whole Foods Markets
This eighth journey to New England had the same intent as the 2008 trip- see relatives and the familiar sightseeing and food quests. To review, Mom grew up in Warren, Rhode Island and we have relatives with homes in Rhode Island, Massachusetts and New Hampshire.
This map represents just this trip since every trip would make it a jumble of squiggles.
Tuesday, July 20th, 2010
Arrived in Boston and after picking up the most expensive rental car ever headed west to delve into South Boston continuing on Route 9 experiencing the dense neighborhoods and towns. Brookline:
Food stops included Japonaise Bakery and Pie Bakery & Cafe.
I crossed my own path from 2008 in the central Massachusetts working class town of Worcester. The choice was easy at Miranda Bread spying Guava as it brought back fond memories of Brazil and my friends.
West Brookfield
Perched on a hilltop along a rural route Janine’s Frostee was like a beacon of frozen treats.
Ware
With so many times in Providence it was time to get to know Rhode Island’s capitol city better.
Rhody’s have a penchant for Hot Wieners which are unique from the toppings and method of multiple orders being assembled ‘up the arm’. Original New York System has been at it since 1927.
Outrageously good from a mélange of tastes and textures- soft bun, meaty & mildly spicy chili, crunchy onions, the zip of celery salt and a cosmic orange dog with a distinctive taste and uncommon texture.
Downtown
Around since 1888 the mobile Haven Bros. Diner harkens back to when diners were pulled by horses.
Olneyville is another fun Hot Wiener establishment that faltered in having a standard tasting dog.
Wednesday, July 21st, 2010
Benefit Street is dubbed the mile of history from all its handsome historic structures.
Olga’s Cup + Saucer is a charming al fresco breakfast spot.
Other food stops included The Classic Café and Seven Stars Bakery.
Atwells Avenue is the heart of the Italian neighborhood Federal Hill.
Scialo Bros. Bakery is a fixture on that street.
Spoting the Sfogliatelle eliminated any decisions. I asked the ladies how good they were and they excitedly carried on in Italian. One bite and I knew what they were talking about.
Still on Atwells for another bakery and the glossy Costatino’s Venda Ravioli.
Downtown
Providence has garnered acclaim from redeveloping its riverfront.
It was finally time to execute the picture-in-front-of-the-capitol tradition.
Modern Diner. 1941.
Seaplane Diner. 1940s.
Located at the Johnson & Wale’s Harborside campus the Culinary Arts Museum was right up my alley. It traced the evolution of cooking, cookbooks, chefs, diners and dining while traveling.
The Warwick location of Iggy’s Doughboys & Chowderhouse is on a tiny peninsula. I ordered up a Snail Salad and the view came for free.
Headed to the southern end of the state to Narragansett to try the namesake fried dough at the original Iggy’s Doughboys & Chowderhouse.
Aunt Carries purportedly has the best Clam Cakes. To think we used to eat these by the bag from shacks on the beach. Yep, chubby kid.
Phase 1 of family time started at Uncle Bob and Aunt Lore’s endlessly charming and inviting home in Wickford.
Thursday, July 22nd, 2010
Point Judith is built on the ferry traffic going to Block Island.
The ferry trip takes 55 minutes as I enjoyed the view and companionship.
This 9 square mile island lies 13 miles off of Rhode Island.
New Shoreham is its only town.
Classically attractive buildings have the typical amalgamation of touristy shops.
Uncle Bob’s excellent lunch setting choice was a quick walk from that downtown.
How’s this table?? How’s that company??
Ahi Tuna on Mixed Field Greens
Back to town we ambled about. Food stops included ice cream, bakery and candy.
Back to the mainland to the bustling Cap ‘N Jacks in Wakefield for dinner which Uncle Bob explained is a destination and tradition for many folks.
Baked Seafood Platter- flounder, scallops, shrimp and clams casino.
Friday, July 23rd, 2010
Even T’s restaurant’s cherry décor couldn’t overpower the gloom of this being the end of my time with Uncle Bob & Aunt Lore.
Healthy choice of Eggbeaters and Fresh Fruit (didn’t eat the bagel).
The historic town of Jamestown with the bridge leading to Newport in the background.
The SE corner of Rhode Island is isolated by water and no through roads. Old stone walls create a quilt of meadows and farmland.
Little Compton lies at the southern end of this area.
Commons Lunch is known for their Johnnycakes. Think pancake made with ground corn. Alas, these were bitter without the usual delightful different textures. (Crunchy edges, gritty AND creamy interior.)
Food rule #16- there is something better about bakery from farm stands.
This Blueberry Muffin made it on my favorites list based on its crunchy top and interior of 90% blueberries. Rule proven! OK, there is no rule list.
Attractive inside and out Provender was a worthy lunch stop.
The Piggley Wiggley is Black Forest ham, lettuce, sprouts, red onion, tomato and cucumber on 7 grain and was enhanced with my brilliant request for mango chutney.
Despite a location not on the way to anywhere Gray’s is THE Rhode Island ice cream institution.
Frozen Pudding Ice Cream. (It’s a Rhode Island thing.)
On the water + crushed clam shell floor + plastic tables = ideal road food.
Stuffie
Bristol has the country’s oldest 4th of July parade. That patriotism is celebrated all year long.
The Chop Suey Cupcake is The Cake Gallery’s homage to a chop suey sandwich. (It’s a Rhode Island thing.)
Phase 2 of family time started on the northeastern side of Narragansett Bay at Uncle Ben and Aunt Betty’s on the Barrington River.
This is a new house since my visit 2 years ago. It is beautiful in setting and layout accentuated by Aunt Betty’s proficient touch.
Myself with Uncle Ben, Aunt Betty, Jim and Mom.
As luck would have it Uncle Harry and Joyce drove the 14 hours from their South Carolina home to round out the family gathering. The dogs came to supervise Uncle Harry. They’re trained. He’s not.
Dinner was at Uncle Ben and Aunt Betty’s frequent fine dining hang out.
Calamari
Grilled Swordfish topped with Corn Tapenade over Sautéed Spinach and Roasted Fingerling Potatoes
Saturday, July 24th, 2010
Up at the usual early hour to witness a beautiful day commencing over a beautiful scene.
On the way to the fitness center stopped at Vienna Bakery for a Sugar Free Blueberry Turnover.
Two hours later it was good fortune to find the Barrington Farmers’ Market in full swing.
Was I a) checking e-mail b) checking Facebook c) checking Milwaukee restaurant news d) reading The Patriot Post e) all of the above?
Self proclaimed water rat Uncle Harry had been bragging about his eel catching ability. He did an excellent job catching crabs so small they still had diapers on. He practiced perseverance. I practiced roasting in the sun. And when Jim started casting watching the hook.
Cousin Jeff and his slammin’ hot wife Liz joined the festivities. (She told me to say that.) (Among other things.)
There was a subconscious emptiness from the 3 second cousins not being able to make it.
It was through Liz’s tenacious working of the phone calling every local fish market and then bait shop to secure the only eels that side of Narragansett Bay.
The store bought eels are in the bag. (How about his outfit? I cut my grass in better clothes.)
Lunch included Stuffies and Chowder...um chowda.
It was a media circus while Uncle Harry skinned the store bought eels.
The ever so tactful former body builder showed his pictures. Was it what I said about his thigh tan line? Or the leotard?
Uncle Harry spent 2 hours thinking Liz was her 16 year old daughter Morgan. Yeah, he wasn’t the first rat out of the maze. Liz was understandably flattered.
Aunt Betty put out an excellent seafood bonanza. Little necks and seafood spread initiated the goodies.
Cheers!
Swordfish, salmon, stuffies, 2 kinds of zuppa and eels (valiant effort Uncle Harry, great initiative Liz.)
Look at that. Everyone actually stopped talking being too busy stuffing their pie holes.
We moved inside to continue the camaraderie and enjoy Aunt Betty’s frozen strawberry dessert.
Sunday, July 25th, 2010
It took about an hour to navigate down to Newport.
It was a most picturesque way to approach this resort town.
Lunch was at the nautical themed The Mooring.
Shrimp and Scallop Ceviche and Chopped Salad. AKA lean protein and greens.
Newport retains an aura of its multifaceted past in a highly polished manner.
Food fun included Cookie Jar, splitting Apple Pie with Uncle Ben and ice cream
An impending storm limited our time in Newport to 2 hours. Uncle Ben deftly piloted the boat over the choppy waves while Mom squealed in delight. Aunt Betty held on to her hat.
The grand finale of the day from their deck.
Monday, July 26th, 2010
Time to break off on my own again. So sad.
Fall River is a working class town in Massachusetts not far from the R.I. border between the Taunton River and Wattupa Ponds.
Al Mac’s Diner. 1953.
Delicious Spinach Roll from Marzelli’s Bakery and Malassada from Terminal Bakery.
The heart of that Portuguese community is Columbia Street.
The Linguiça Roll from Cunha’s struck it on all chords with a pillowy dough enveloping that mildly spicy sausage.
Tony’s Bakery for the stalwart Portuegese Sweet Bread featuring a mellow sweet taste and Colmbia Bakery's Biscoito with a crunch on the outside, soft on the inside.
Battleship Cove, framed by the Braga Bridge, is the largest collection of naval vessels in the world.
As with any time touring WWII ships I was in awe picturing the mayhem they went through and honor of those who served aboard them.
Destroyer Joseph P. Kennedy, Jr.
Submarine Lionfish (British)
Missile Corvette Hiddensee (Russian)
Battleship Massachusetts
Back to Newport to continue reacquainting myself with this tony town.
Ocean Avenue follows the ‘L’ shaped peninsula and is ringed with inviting beaches, rocky inlets and impressive homes.
Cliff Walk is perched on bluffs over Easton Bay and showcases mansions of a bygone era.
Crossed Easton Bay to the venerable Flo’s Clam Shack in Middletown.
Flo’s Fiery Stuffed Quahog and Clam Cakes
Tuesday, July 27th, 2010
Hadn’t driven the curve of Cape Cod since the mid 1970s. When I was a wee back seat passenger.
The name of Pie in The Sky in Woods Hole narrowed down the bakery choice.
Betsy’s Diner. 1957. Falmouth.
Osterville
Four Seas Ice Cream. Fat Free Blueberry.
Dennis Port
As the unofficial capitol of The Cape I was expecting more from Hyannis so deduced it is more a port for Nantucket and Martha's Vineyard ferries than a destination itself.
Yeah, who’s going to pass this up?
Chatham become my favorite town on The Cape.
Just outside of this town is a lighthouse and Cape Cod National Seashore.
Moving north there was an abundance of picturesque inlets made more so by the triangles of sailboats.
Provincetown is at the very end of the curl of The Cape. A contagious energy made the town a lot of fun.
This Rabanadas wasn’t as good as it looks. It was better.
Despite the usual tourist traps, Provincetown projected a different vibe.
Cobie’s in Brewster has been a local tradition since 1948.
Sandwich- oldest town on The Cape.
Wednesday, July 28th, 2010
New Bedford is on the central part of Massachusetts’s southern coast and offered 3 food stops.
Shawmut Diner. 1953.
The thing of the right is layers of flaky pastry, cream and meringue. How does that sound?
Martha’s Vineyard was another place to revisit.
The ferry from Woods Hole on the SW corner of The Cape takes 45 minutes to get to Vineyard Haven.
Explored the town, enjoyed a Blueberry Muffin and then rented a bike.
It took about 20 minutes to get to the active Oak Bluff.
Circuit Avenue is the main drag in Oak Bluff offering an inviting stretch of storefronts.
This street contributed a Dark Chocolate Covered Apricot from Bill & Ben’s Chocolate Emporium and a donut from M.V. Bakery who touts them. They shouldn’t.
Along the ocean is a beautiful and spacious park.
The ride south to Edgartown is supposed to take an hour. I did it in 30 minutes, against a strong wind.
Went directly to the Chappaquiddick ferry for the 3 minute ride. On July 18th, 1969 an intoxicated Ted Kenndy drove off that bridge leaving Mary Jo Kopechne. He left the scene not to notify anyone until the next day.
Returned to Edgartown, the largest town on the island.
The influence of money is apparent in this meticulous town and surrounding homes.
How is this setting for lunch #1?
Apple Muffin.
How is this setting for lunch #2?
How about the view from my table?
Striped Bass Sashimi.
South Beach is the island’s most popular stretch of sand.
Returning to the mainland to drive to Dedham in central part of Massachusetts to my 47th Whole Foods Market. It placed in my top 3 based on its accoutrements and they way they are presented.
Thursday, July 29th, 2010
Today started along the eastern part of Massachusetts, south of Boston.
There is an entire apple in this Apple Dumpling. That makes it healthy.
What an ideal breakfast spot in Weymouth.
More healthy bakery at Montilio’s in Brockton. (Just play along.)
Being an ardent admirer of our remarkable founding fathers I highly anticipated visiting the Adams National Historic Park in Quincy. Having recently read David McCullough’s John Adams and 1776 the image painted of these homes was fresh in my mind.
John Adams was born in this house in 1735.
When he married Abigail they moved just 75 feet away from his birthplace. He practiced law from this house and soon began his political career as a diplomat and creator of a new country.
These pictures show the relationship of the homes to each other and how it looked centuries ago.
After the years spent abroad John and Abigail moved to the Old House at Peacedale in 1788. Since it stayed in the family all the original furnishings remain down to the wallpaper.
It was AMAZING to see the desk he wrote his famed correspondence to Thomas Jefferson at. His favorite chair. The china they ate off of. Furniture used in the White House. The couch he posed on for Gilbert Stuart.
In 1870 the Stone Library was built on the grounds to house John Quincy Adam’s papers and books.
It has 12,000 books on an impressive assembly of shelves and mezzanine. This does look like a lot of books but consider this- every shelf is 2 to 3 books deep!
Had some time before the flight to head up to the other side of Boston to Somerville.
Do I have raspberry on my face?
Kelly’s Diner. 1953.
Rosebud Diner. 1941.
Bakers racks in Petsi Pies heightened the anticipation. Make mine a blueberry!
After a 5 hour flight delay I finally got home well past my bedtime. The welcoming sign at Mitchell was going through its messages and elicited a laugh.
Hey, I’ve studied that too!