4,698 Miles
90 hours and 54 minutes driving time
31 Restaurants
10 Bakeries
3 Ice Cream Shops
1 Smoothie
6 Audio Books
Saturday, November 21st, 2015
To make up for limited time there on a past trip, the intention was to spend more time in Pigeon Forge and Gatlinburg, Tennessee. But it took 2 hours to go 15 miles putting me behind schedule.
Crossed into North Carolina through Great Smoky Mountains National Park. While navigating that twisty road I reflected back on the brash commercialism of those two towns, the natural beauty I was seeing and the remoteness of the part of western North Carolina I was heading into. What a great country.
Travel Boy Travel Tip # 36: Always stop for neon pig signs.
Chopped Pork, Hush Puppies, Baked Beans and Cole Slaw in Bryce City in the western part of North Carolina.
Sunday, November 22nd, 2015
Headed south to start to remedy a blank spot in the Georgia map.
The morning sun was bathing Danielsville.
Crossing into South Carolina over the Savannah River. I love bridges.
In South Carolina for only minutes and Abbeville became my favorite SC town. Yeah, even before seeing most of the state.
Everywhere you turn is a Kodak moment.
Either side of the main drag of Anderson brings you back decades.
Tucked away, Pendleton is a strollable small town.
Greenville showcases several districts.
Spartanburg.
"The Beacon stands for old-fashioned things...God, country, family, friends, children, and a decent meal at a fair price."
They are about big sandwiches so got some quality protein with Sliced Turkey. And couldn’t pass up the $2.50 Peach Cobbler.
Cowpens. Love the name.
Headed into North Carolina up to Charlotte.
It was 9 years ago the prior day I met Monika and Rodolfo on a flight from San Francisco to Beijing.
We explored China together and later Puerto Vallarta and Rome (with their daughters), strolled all over London, did a Bahamian cruise (with their daughters), I visited them twice at their then home in SoCal and their family and friends were great hosts in their homeland of Brazil.
After dropping Monika off at work, Rodolfo and I headed to Charlotte’s uptown. I was sad to only have an hour with Monika.
We walked around catching up.
Dinner was at Mert’s Heart & Soul.
Travel Boy Rule #21: Always get collards and yams.
Walking back to the car after dinner I was aware of someone walking behind us. After passing what ended up being a hotel we heard a female voice behind us say, "Thank you gentleman." We turned to find a lady smiling who explained, "You don't know how much better you made me feel." Realizing she was afraid to walk alone Rodolfo talked about how Charlotte uptown was safe. She said she was in town for an interview and was grateful not to walk back alone. Rodolfo continued saying they have lived there for 2 years and it is safe. She reiterated how relieved she felt and thanked us again. Only then did Rodolfo lift his shirt to show a shield clipped to his belt. I closely watched her reaction. "Oh, I did pick the right guy to walk behind."
And little did she know he was packing.
Their daughter Rachel, 20, is attending nursing school. Since we hadn’t seen each other in years I tried to convince her I was taller. The other daughter, Julia, is studying architecture at Cal Poly.
Rachel and I reminisced about past trips while reviewing pictures on this site of us growing up. OK, OK, only the ladies have matured.
Monday, November 23rd, 2015
On the way to the breakfast destination stopped at Sunflower Baking Company for this Raspberry Cupcake. Since raspberries are good for you.
Found my Charlotte breakfast spot had closed after 4 decades so headed out of town.
Proceeded south back into South Carolina, passed Columbia (been there, done that) and near the Georgia border enjoyed the Aiken.
Aiken is a unexpectedly refined town while being comfortable with an inviting feeling.
Did a loop through Georgia.
Eatonton is 80 miles SE of Atlanta.
Back to South Carolina and its coast.
Driving into Charleston I reflected back 12 years ago when I was last there. The Map sure had a lot more blank spaces. The globe hadn’t been explored as much. How much had I changed? Not much I decided. Sure, seeing so much does give a lot more experience of what’s out there. But the same wonder of what is around the next corner hasn’t diminished. Of always being overwhelmed of thinking of how much is going on around the world.
The palette sure has expanded, but now and then fast food and chains are avoided.
One thing has changed. Technology.
It used to be only paper maps. Now it is maps and a voice recognition Garmin Nuvi.
It used to be AAA books and stopping at several hotels each night to ask prices. Now it is a smartphone.
It used to be a spindle of books on CD. Now it is a mini SD card.
It used to be checking in with a payphone. Now it is text and Facebook.
It used to be getting to the airport a half hour before the flight. Now.....
Arranged on a peninsula, Charlestown is such a wonderful town to meander.
Turn down the narrow Unity Alley to find McCrady’s, one of the best restaurants in the country helmed by Sean Brock.
Within a half hour this elegant dining room was full.
Ember grilled squid, pancetta, field peas, fennel
Trout, chimichurri, broccoli
Amazing. The broccoli lent such a fresh balance to the perfectly grilled fish.
Honeycrisp
Tuesday, November 24th, 2015
This morning’s run went through the charming residential neighborhoods, across the desolate early morning downtown,
and headed back to the hotel when, for the third time in 13 years of running, I fell. In the dark an unseen rise in the sidewalk caught my toe immediately prompting full out sprawl which I allowed to go into a tumble to absorb the kinetic energy. Luckily the camera, shoes and clothing were unscathed. Skin wounds heal.
Hominy Grill was sourced many years ago from roadfood.com.
The Shrimp ‘n Grits and cherry dining room supported why this institution is raved about on Yelp, TripAdvisor and Google reviews.
Did another loop around this delightful town checking out the antebellum homes.
Stately buildings.
The serene French Quarter.
And lastly the waterfront.
Heading south through the lowlands, crossing my own path from the past trip in reverse, I thought back to that trip remembering everything.
Quick stop at a roadside vendor for Pumpkin Pecan Bread.
This map shows the location of the next three stops- Beaufort, Parris Island and Hilton Head.
Located on Port Royal Island, Beaufort is known for its water views,
regal homes,
quaint downtown,
and parks.
Parris Island. A legend.
They’ve been doing this since 1915.
Accessing the island through tight security, it was mindboggling to imagine the struggles over decades of striving to be the best.
The Parris Island Museum documents the Marine training, lore and use for 100 years.
It was hard to get any pictures of Hilton Head Island since all the shopping and resorts are hidden beyond foliage.
Sumter in east central SC.
It was too bad the twilight didn’t allow better pictures of Cheraw’s appealing downtown and homes.
Wednesday, November 25th, 2015
Cold morning run. No spills.
Florence in north central SC.
Georgetown is one of those coastal towns you want to linger in.
OK, maybe this is my favorite SC town.
Just amble down the canopied downtown,
and along the Harborwalk.
At Aunny’s went with Spots and Grits. Never having had this estuary salt water fish before I found it...tasted like soggy cardboard. Not that I know what soggy cardboard tastes like.
Mixed Berry Muffin. Since berries are good for you.
Pawleys Island is a short barrier island.
Sunny, but windy day.
Lobster Tail. Love these. The crunchy, scaled phyllo dough yields to velvety cold cream.
Bypassed Myrtle Beach (been there, done that).
The USS North Carolina served from 1941 to 1947.
She was relocated across from Wilmington, North Carolina in 1961.
Look at those massive guns. No, no, my biceps are covered. I mean the 16” turrets.
Inside the front turrent.
Look at that firepower!
As with the dozens of naval vessels I’ve toured across the country the same awe still pervades.
Imagine the mayhem these ships saw.
The heroes who served.
The complexity.
Think it has cruise control?
Headed across the Cape Fear River to downtown Wilmington. This small town is surrounded by cozy period homes.
Chandler’s Wharf is a complex of shopping and eating.
Enjoyed Pumpkin Ice Cream while exploring the century old Cotton Exchange complex.
This is the last thing I remember before passing out. They brought me to by waving buttercream frosting under my nose.
Thursday, November 26th, 2015
After staying in Jacksonville (stayed upright on the run) drove along the northern boundary of Camp Lejune, the Marine base. So cool.
I know, I know. It’s a chain. But a trip to the south doesn’t seem complete without a stop at this venerable yellow and glass box.
Figuring not much would be open this Thanksgiving Day I decided to really fuel up. Cheese in the eggs!
Started the loop of the Crystal Coast by crossing the Intercoastal Waterway into the pleasant Atlantic Beach. I love bridges.
Morehead City is the first city along this west to east coast.
Beaufort is further down the coast featuring stately homes overlooking the water, a harbor and inviting downtown.
Water, water everywhere.
Bridges are so cool.
In 1893 Caleb Bradham created Brad’s Drink at his pharmacy in New Bern.
Later that carbonated drink was renamed Pepsi-Cola.
Bath is the oldest city in North Carolina.
Continuing on, the coastal area population thinned and views magnified.
Have always loved the Outer Banks. And bridges.
On December 17th, 1903 Wilbur Wright piloted the first successful flight...
....when this area was sand dunes.
This granite boulder marks the take off point and the pillars in the distance denote the landing points of the first four flights.
The Wright Brothers Memorial was completed in 1931. Orville Wright was among the 1,000 who attended the Memorial dedication.
On the other side of the Memorial is this sculpture.
It’s open design makes it easy for kids to play.
Headed back inland visiting a string of towns along inlets of Albermarle Sound. Elizabeth City.
Edenton. I want to move here.
The end of Main Street.
Standing on the pier feeling the warm breeze. Listening to the waves gently lapping. The sound of kids at a shore playground in the distance. The clear sky overhead stars sparkling.
Friday, November 27th, 2015
Morning run in Henderson. Didn’t fall.
Durham’s West End is populated by red brick warehouses. Brightleaf Square started as tobacco warehouses in 1900 and today houses boutiques and restaurants.
Raleigh.
Big Ed’s City Market started in 1958 using Ed Watkin’s mother’s farm recipes.
I knew I’d like this place.
Country Ham, Red Eyed Gravy, Grits and Biscuits. Since country ham is cured in salt I was worried about the cycle for the rest of the day. Worries were validated.
Although I've already done the tradition of a self-timer picture in front of the capital....
Airborne and Special Forces Museum in Fayetteville.
They did a tremendous job documenting the major conflicts our awesome military has dealt with.
They presented a respectful narrative through signage, artifacts and displays.
It does get emotional to consider the sacrifices of our soldiers.
Norwood.
A few miles and turns off the beaten path ,the North Carolina Air Museum turned out not to be worth the navigating.
But you still have to respect those so passionate to put together the displays and maintain the aircraft in these two hangers.
Chapel Hill is a college town in the refined sense. Like the fraternities had mansions.
Lantern is a highly acclaimed restaurant including being on Gourmet’s Top 50.
Lantern local pasture-raised pork and chive dumplings.
Steamed NC fish- seared ginger, scallions, fermented black beans, green chiles, steamed baby bok choy and jasmine rice.
This dish showcased the skill of the kitchen. I counted 9 facets and all were executed flawlessly. Together these all worked harmoniously.
Warm native persimmon pudding- candied kumquats, soft cream, local pecans.
Saturday, November 28th, 2015
While running (didn’t fall) by Chapel Hill’s Whole Foods Market I pondered if the Christmas trees they sell are organic, free range, antibiotic free and vegan.
Back on the road making an arc through north central NC.
Elm Street in downtown Greensboro marks the original settlement.
Winston-Salem’s skyline is blah.
So it was nice to find a welcoming downtown of tree shaded streets.
Immediately south of that downtown is Old Salem.
This living history museum preserves homes, businesses and farms.
Andy Griffith grew up in the NW corner of the state and used Mount Airy as an inspiration for his popular 1960s show.
Snappy Lunch goes back to 1923, and gratefully looks like it hasn’t changed much.
Fried Pork Chop, Chili, Cole Slaw, Onion, Tomato, Ketchup and Mustard.
There was a lot of enticement at the long counter in Miss Angels Heavenly Pies. I went with Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Streusel.
Took a quick loop through Virginia.
Before pivoting back south to meander along the Blue Ridge Parkway.
This undulating road allowed views of pastures and woods.
And beautiful vistas.
Have always said if you are in western North Carolina to go to the Biltmore Estate. This occasion in Asheville I took time to poke around this busy town more.
First up was a healthy lunch at Tupelo Honey Café. This is a typical meal. But really, what makes a better picture? A salad or apple fritter?
Woolworth Walk is that store with the soda fountain preserved, but the rest of the terrazine floored store is populated by artist’s booths.
Grove Public Arcade dates from 1929.
And the glorious interior dazzles with that old world craftsmanship and detail.
Sunday, November 29th, 2015
One more breakfast including grits before heading back home and to the cold.
Gourmet Top 50 (still in business)
Been to:
1) Alinea- Chicago, IL
4) Spago- Beverly Hills, CA
8) Alan Wong’s- Honolulu, Hawaii
9) Daniel- New York City
10) Le Bernardin- New York City
12) Michel Richard Citronelle- Washington DC
13) Charlie Trotter’s- Chicago, IL
17) Babbo- New York City
21) Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare- Las Vegas
22) Restaurant August- New Orleans
27) Jean Georges- New York City
30) La Belle Vie- Minneapolis
34) Gramercy Tavern- New York City
35) Providence- Los Angeles
40) Sanford- Milwaukee, WI
43) No. 9 Park- Boston
47) Lantern- Chapel Hill, NC
48) L’Etoile- Madison, WI
Still need to go to:
2) Chez Panisse- Berkeley, CA
3) The French Laundry- Yountville, CA
5) Joel Robuchon at The Mansion- Las Vegas
7) Masa- New York City
19) Canlis- Seattle
20) L’Auberge- Carmel, CA
23) The Inn at Little Washington- Washington, VA
25) Vetri- Philadelphia
26) Fore Street- Portland, ME
28) Higgins- Portland, OR
29) Da Marco- Houston
33) Frasca- Boulder
36) Restaurant Guy Savoy- Las Vegas
37) Zuni- San Francisco
38) Urasawa- Beverly Hills
39) Bacchanalia- Atlanta
42) Manresa- Los Gatos, CA
45) Café Juanita- Kirkland, WA
46) Paley’s Place- Portland, OR