This Travelogue is dedicated to those relatives included in it. Thanks for everything. Thanks for all that you are.
11 Days Total
8 Days Driving
6 States
3,147 Miles
104 hours, 13 minutes drive time
This seventh trip to New England had these goals in order of priority:
1) See relatives.
2) Cross Vermont off the list allowing me to tout I’ve been to all 48 contiguous states.
3) Canvass Maine. My only other time there was for a day of skiing in 1988.
Mom is from Rhode Island making it odd that with all the past trips over 4 decades we never crossed into Vermont.
Disclaimer/explanation: I love diners. Maybe it is because they are a reflection of times past. Maybe it is the visually stimulating design and details. Maybe it is how they are still a magnet for locals. Maybe it is how a restaurant is fitted into a small space. Maybe it is their legacy as community gathering spots. Maybe it is nostalgia. Maybe it is the variety of styles and flourishes. Maybe it is all these things.
Friday, August 22nd, 2008
First stop outside of Concord is Walden Pond where Henry David Thoreau was inspired to write Walden.
Know the significance of the Old North Bridge? Ever heard of “the shot heard round the world”? This is where the first guns were fired and British killed on April 19, 1775 starting the American Revolution. Hallowed ground.
Gardner, Massachusetts
Shelborne Falls
Williamstown
Would you guess my first stop in Vermont was at a farm bake shop?
In Bennington hit Blue Benn Diner and while considering a Grilled Salmon Salad saw the Whole Wheat Harvest Pancake.
Rutland.
Al’s in South Burlington is famous for their fries. Eh.
Saturday, August 23rd, 2008
Burlington has a pleasant pedestrian shopping street called Church Street Marketplace.
Off of this is the 83 year old Henry’s Diner. Sadly modified on the outside it gratefully retains its original 1925 charm inside. Note the barrel vaulted ceiling and worn counter.
On the other side of St. Albans main street streetwall was a farmers’ market. I had every good intention of fruit, but somehow ended up with bakery.
Way up in northern Vermont sits Newport on a lake. A nearby drive-in was an outlet for an ice cream cone.
Northern Vermont and New Hampshire.
After traipsing across Vermont and into New Hampshire I had two pre-scouted stops in Littleton. Bishop’s Homemade Ice Cream Shoppe for Grape Nuts Ice Cream (it’s a New England thing). And then Cutters General Store to see the world’s longest candy counter.
Along a dirt road in the middle of nowhere Vermont.
Sunday, August 24th, 2008
The morning run did triple duty to explore Montpelier and get my traditional picture in front of a capital.
In the Vermont foothills is Bridgewater Commons where Blanche & Bill’s Pancake House is a breakfast magnet. Their menu is comprised of 8 ½ by 11 sheets of paper plastering the walls.
Woodstock is one of those towns you don’t want to leave. Surrounded by meticulous homes of clapboard and brick fronted by fences and exquisite landscaping the downtown area has all the hallmarks of Americana. A wrought iron fence ringed town park, a mosaic of architecture revealed in store fronts, a covered bridge, protective canopies, flower boxes. Oh, and a bakery.
In Quechee stopped at Maple Grove Bakery for some tasty, and healthy, granola.
Back in New Hampshire.
Another New England food tradition was achieved at Danbury’s Farmers’ Market with a Whoopie Pie.
Tumble Inn Diner, Claremont, New Hamphire.
Who would believe the rustic Country Girl Diner in isolated Chester, Vermont would have Salmon Burgers? And it was good- all fish and no filler as I feared.
Grafton where they make cheese just like Wisconsin!
The Chelsea Royal Diner has been gobbled up by numerous expansions. At least I got to sit in the original diner.
Rugged Brattleboro offered Amy’s Bakery Arts Café.
Curtis’ Barbeque, on my pre-scouted list, is situated outside tiny, remote Putney. You order at the school bus window and the food is brought through from the grill/smokers set up outside under corrugated steel.
I had to go with their famous ribs priced at what I thought was a steep $7 for two. Were they good? No. They were excellent. After one bite I reverted to caveman status gnawing away until left with two bare bones. At that point I realized the rest of the world had disappeared for that inhaling…um I mean eating…time. I glanced around at picnic tables of families and no one was talking. Like me they were all completely engrossed in the fabulous meat.
I did have one thing the cavemen didn’t- barbeque sauce all over my face and hands!
Monday, August 25th, 2008
Whately, Massachusetts
The Miss Florence Diner in the town of the same name has been surrounded by additions, but fortunately the interior remains. Note the tile floor and Moderne styled menu board on the upper right.
The college town of Amherst presents a town green across from the main drag. Nearby was a bakery.
Back in Massachusetts I swung through the canal town of Holyoke then through gritty Springfield.
Boulevard Diner, Worcester, 1936.
Soon after crossing into Rhode Island my GPS helped me find the remote Wright’s Farm for a massive muffin.
Over in Connecticut the capitol tradition persisted in Hartford.
Moving to the Atlantic coast in Guilford at Bishop’s Orchards Farm Market I bypassed the produce for their in house bakery.
The evening light was casting an ethereal glow over the Connecticut River in Essex. A dream of a town I was enchanted by the Colonial charm of white picket fences, immaculate styling, American flags, mature shade trees, real shutters and endless whimsy.
Tuesday, August 26th, 2008
You can guess why this place in Mystic is called Kitchen Little.
How is this for a breakfast setting?
Blueberry Almond Cookie at upscale Li’s Bake Shop.
Watch Hill, Rhode Island
As soon as I stepped out of the car in Narragansett the sea air transported me back to summers of childhood.
This building is 7/8s donut production proving Allie’s Donuts cult like following.
The loneliness of the road came to an end as Uncle Bob and Aunt Hannelore opened up their unending comfortable and warm home.
After some engaging conversation and catching up lunch was served. It has come to my attention not everyone is familiar with Lobster Rolls. Essentially chunks of lobster in a roll, usually with mayo. These were delicious.
Uncle Bob and I then took a walk through their small neighborhood surrounded by water. It’s maybe 2 blocks wide by three-quarters of a mile long.
Next we went to Gilbert Stuart’s birthplace; America’s foremost portraitists. You might recognize his work of George Washington on the one dollar bill.
Wickford is infused with history and populated by Colonial gems.
How is this setting for dinner? The Coast Guard House in Narragansett.
Point Judith Calamari
Citrus vinaigrette, house pickled peppers and fresh herbs
“Georges Bank” Sea Scallops
Pan fried fingerling potatoes, vegetable ragout, sauce Bordelaise
• Huge, firm, succulent, nice sear.
Great meal, but better company!
Aunt Lore, who is German, had made a rhabarberkuchen for dessert. This rhubarb cake was superb.
The accommodations took a leap that night. Notice the chocolates on the pillow!
Wednesday, August 27th, 2008
How are these views taken during the requisite run?
Before bidding ado we gathered for breakfast. I chose Johnnycakes, a distinctively Rhode Island breakfast item. I marveled at their crisp exterior and interior of gumminess contrasted by the grittiness of cornmeal.
Parting is such sweet sorrow. What suburb company. It was so satisfying to see their rewarding lifestyle including a lovely home, frequent traveling and family.
Quick swing through Cranston for the local chain Honey Dew Donuts and a Blueberry Muffin from DeFusco’s Bakery.
Next up was Barrington and Aunt Betty, Uncle Ben and first cousin, once-removed Luke. Aunt Betty, Uncle Ben and I met up with my cousin Jeff for lunch on the Barrington River.
After lunch we took a walk down memory lane at Warren Beach. Here are pictures taken in 1976 and 2008. Can you tell which is which? (That's me in the red shorts.)
Uncle Ben, Luke and I then ran around. Stops included seeing Jeff at the company he runs that was started by Uncle Ben, now retired (but far from inactive!). Followed by seeing Jeff’s wife Liz and their daughter Madison. Regrettably their other daughter Morgan was at school.
For dinner Aunt Betty and Uncle Ben took me to Hemenway’s Seafood Grill & Oyster Bar in the rejuvenated Providence.
Pan-Fried Calamari
Hot Peppers & Garlic
• One of the two best calamari dishes I’ve ever had
Smoked Salmon
Capers, Onions & Dill Mayo
• What a wonderful juxtaposition of the fish with the briny capers, bright dill/smooth mayo and crunchy rye.
Oven Roasted Swordfish
Fresh harpoon caught swordfish glazed with whole grain mustard served with a grilled balsamic Vidalia onion salad
• That glaze accented the fish magnificently. And the onions, included pearl, had a deep robust sweetness that begged to be devoured.
Excellent meal. Excellent company. What a day.
Another departure from my usual Interstate lodging. What is it with women and pillows?! 8 pillows. I didn’t know which one to use…..got scared…..so slept on the floor.
Thursday, August 28th, 2008
Uncle Ben invited me to a bike ride; most of it road, some of it dirt. He on his Intense (a brand I am considering) and I on Luke’s Cannondale.
We peddled to The Hope Diner in Bristol. I had chunky oatmeal, Uncle Ben had Grilled Portuguese Sweet Bread (excellent).
Don’t have biking views like this in Wisconsin.
Very bummed to leave. They asked me to stay longer, I wanted to stay longer. Yet my itinerary, which pivoted around this visit, had me excited to explore Maine. As I drove I-93 north I debated between quality time with family and quality time seeing the great state of Maine. I decided on both. I was confident I could get through Maine with enough time to meet them at their second home in New Hampshire. (Sneak peak- it happened.)
Portsmouth, New Hampshire has an active downtown…and a bakery.
Since 1956 Bob’s Clam Hut has been luring motorists off Route 1 in Kittery, Maine.
Continuing to follow Route 1 the coastal towns of York and York Beach were populated with water seekers.
Heading toward Cape Neddick the tires just about pulled off the car as soon as I spotted Pie in the Sky Bakery. This slice is Summer Dayz including wild Maine blueberries, in season peaches and other berries.
Cape Neddick’s food fame is Flo’s. Steamed hot dogs in steamed buns with homemade relish it is a destination celebrated for not only the dogs but the simple building run by one lady who grumpily handles a line of people both taking orders and prepping the dogs.
Ogunquit has a charming little downtown area. And a candy shop and two bakeries.
Would you believe this drew me off the road?
The beloved Maine Diner is all cheery.
We all know what put Kennebunkport on the map.
After seeing Walker’s Point went to Dock Square and then the venerable The Clam Hut.
Old Port in Portland.
The coast of Maine has countless seafood stands offering lobster rolls. Red’s Eats in Wiscasset is the most famous of them all.
Aunt Lore and Uncle Bob’s was infinitely better.
Boothbay Harbor on one of the numerous Maine peninsulas.
Friday, August 29th, 2008
Augusta, another capitol.
Moody’s Diner has been around since 1934 in Waldoboro. While the appearance inside and out don’t show it anymore, at least the ambience is still old diner.
The gentle curve of Rockland’s main street provides a view of the storefronts which are above the ocean.
That view also helped reveal two bakeries. That’s a Triple Berry Muffin.
Rockport
Camden
Belfast’s main street drops into the harbor where a Farmers’ Market was in full swing. Sigh, more bakery.
Mount Desert Island may not be recognized by name, but two of its star attractions are. Bar Harbor is unapologetic touristy, but without being kitschy.
After a bakery stop and taking in the view of the harbor I learned Lobster Ice Cream is NOT good at Bob & Bill’s Chocolate Emporium.
Acadia National Park is one of our nation’s great landscapes.
Lubec- easternmost town in the U.S.
Saturday, August 30th, 2008
This day covered the lesser populated areas of Maine. It started along the eastern border moving north then zigzagging the central part of the state.
This bakery appeared out of the morning fog and provided a Wild Maine Blueberry Muffin.
It was all locals at Al’s Diner in Mars Hill.
St. John’s River- the border between Maine and Canada.
Central Maine
In remote Milo stepping into Elaine’s Café was like stepping into someone’s house.
Had to make a U turn after seeing this farm with a bakery sign. Another Wild Maine Blueberry Muffin.
What is it about these remote bakeries? Abbott Village for a ‘small’ Apple Pie.
Dover-Foxcoft
North central Maine.
Maine’s native ice cream was enjoyed in Skawhegan at Gifford’s Ice Cream. The Maine Blueberry (again) was delightful and you’d never know this Wild Blackberry didn’t have sugar or fat.
Sunday, August 31st, 2008
Bethel
More of Maine and New Hampshire
Great breakfast spot in small town Lovell.
Wolfeboro, New Hampshire has a lively downtown strip along a lake. I even stood in line at the Yum Yum Shop. Then hit up one more bakery at Hunter’s.
Made it to the relatives with a day and a half to spare!
“Do you ever get sick of this view?” I asked Aunt Betty as I took in this beauty not admired in way too long from their dining room.
Everyone was there:
Aunt Betty
Uncle Ben
Luke- my first cousin, once-removed
Jeff- my cousin
Liz- his wife
Madison & Morgan- their daughters; my cousins, once-removed
Bentley- Jeff's son AKA the family dog
Aunt Betty presented a great lunch made all the better al fresco with that view.
Then I spent some time on the beach, kayaking, socializing and running errands with Uncle Ben and Jeff. During which Jeff promptly set me up as the scapegoat if any errors were made with Aunt Betty’s grocery list. And there were errors.
Dinner was a seafood bonanza. Clams Casino, grilled clams, littlenecks, crab cakes, soup, more clams and finished with a refreshing frozen strawberry dessert.
The food was marvelous. But what really made the meal and the evening was the company. Laughs, stories, bonding, wisdom, numerous examples of how lucky these families are.
Evening entertainment was fireworks and Maddy doing cartwheels on the sand.
And soon everyone got sleepy, even Bentley the dog. Who was tucked in by Luke.
And even mister-in-bed-by-8:30-to-9 was up past 11!
Monday, September, 1st, 2008
Up at the usual 5AM went for the required run, then showered and found Uncle Ben was the first one up. We settled on the 2nd level deck in front of a fire to take the morning chill off. He with a cup of coffee, me with a glass of milk I gazed at the beach leading to the glass like water and the mountains in the distance.
The rest of the family started rising and preparing to get back home to work and school. During this beehive of activity everyone paused long enough for group pictures.
Shortly after 11AM I had to start making my way back to Logan International in Boston for the flight home. So sad to go yet so grateful for being able to have this extra day with these wonderful people. It was an honor to witness their blessed lifestyles, easy humor and family bonds. It was heart warming and soul filling.
On the way back…another capitol. Concord, New Hampshire.
So, do you think those three goals were achieved?!